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Graffitti that adorns New York

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I wanted to share some photos I took whilst on holiday in NY last Christmas. I loved every minute of being in the Big Apple. It was such an assault on the senses but in the most wonderful way! There was so much to see from the fashion on the street and architecture, to the build boards and lights displays. Kunal and I went through New York ... charging ahead each morning on foot... Sipping coffee from the chic-est little cafes with character and lunching and dining in only A-listers and highly recommended ones. It helped to have local friends - Karan and Vira who had edited the list for this refines selection. One would think breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and a snack at different places would have pretty much covered it all... but New York is a feast for gourmands like Kunal and I. We still didn’t have enough time to fit in all the ones I wanted to visit. Every time I stepped out side my hotel I felt such a buzz from everything going on around me.

One of NYC’s many pleasures is turning a corner to find a street-art mural taking up an entire wall, or spotting a piece by a well reknownded artist. It’s up there with yellow cabs, steaming manholes and hot dog stands. I have to admit, I don't understand Grafitti art much – It’s really a mixture of fine art expressionism with exciting street edge. Some of it is not even to my taste.. i am more of a canvas with abstracts on a wall. But some of these defy my sensibilities and there is something that appeals even to my mind. As I rode the red tourist bus around NYC I went click click click on my camera to find these amazing life size artworks.











Hosting #101 .. Surmounting a Grocery List !

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Yes – we live alone. We are the quintessential Mumbai couple who manages a HOME for 2 ! Yes, I do not have a mother in law to meddle in my everyday house running skills (oh btw I love my ma-in-law ) … we do not have a bhabhi who will willingly cook while I am away at an important meeting. we don’t have a father in law who will take over the bills – Kunal has to make time to sort them out. When we throw a party, our shopping list doesn’t get distributed by the dozen people living under the roof…I can write book titled "The Bible of surviving in Mumbai x 2" or like Kunal likes to call it... just sucking it up and getting used to ticking off, till the last item on my TO-DO list on an everyday basis !

Off the many things that I fast learnt on my first few times of living and running a household for 2 is that you can maximize the potential that the internet with a few clicks of the button. After weeks of plotting and planning dates with the various members of the family we singled out to a fair day in August to host our very first Sunday Brunch to celebrate Raksha Bandhan... All but 40 guests confirmed for what started out as a small get together! I pulled my contacts togther and got a caterer on board to help me with the food…At that point in time I felt like a winner..but i soon realised my worries had just begun !

2 days before the event I called to fix the menu with the ‘Maharaj’ I began jotting down the list of items he was already rattling into the phone... I couldn’t find anything to write on – so I started jotting on the day’s news paper. The times of india was surrounded by items like maida, vinegar, chilly sauce.... on he went… I flipped the paper over to write on the bottom half… oranges..cinnamon powder..ajino moto.. I started writing over the empty spaces on the advertisement now mentally trying to figure out where I would get these things from… spaghetti..oregano…rosemary and that’s it. I was already feeling exhausted… oh madam… did I make you write dry mint powder ? I scanned the list but couldn’t find it… so I fit it right beside the weather update…read heavy showers tomorrow and day after. I could already feel the grey over my head.

Right after putting his phone down I started making a fair list. The fair list comprised of only 68 items to be bought !!!! My eyes pop-ed out. With a kitchen that is run for 2 people, we definitely needed to re-stock our rice, I have never allowed cardamom powder into my home which was about to change and our month supply of fruits was to be ordered just in a day's time. I frantically called my mother in law who sweetly offered to run errands for me… but I decided to take the plunge into house-running-bliss. She sounded skeptical, but we decided it would be best if I use this moment to learn a thing or two about hosting a social gathering !

For those who know me, I’m quite an organization freak… I divided the list into Grocery & staples, Fruits & Vegetables, Bread & Dairy and others… I was not quite sure where I would get the others items. But I decided to tackle one problem at a time.  Yes – I know what I did next will make my mother laugh and I can hear my distant aunt mocking from her grave, "I TOLD YOU SO"– but some of the items on that list, I didn’t know what they meant. When I did huh on the phone to the maharaj – he said arreh madam, do you not know this also… I just pretended that the line was unclear. Yes... I know your laughed a little...So I google’d them + Mumbai to see where I would get them ! Pop came the ad for www.bigbasket.com

I have never been to an online supermarket..I clicked. The screen went white and flashing… it was almost as if I was in a HyperMarket without the clutter of leading brands flashing in your face… There was no walking through the aisles, there were no screaming children toppling everything, there was no forgetting anything and having to walk back all the way to the start for a bag of sugar !

It was a simple interface that allowed me to go through my entire list… within minutes I had shopped for every single item on all 3 of my segregated list. When I usually go to a hyper market I end up buying so much more than I am actually required to.. call me a retail junkie… but there was nobody trying to force a plastic spoon with the latest aachar to try and forcing me to buy either. There was absolutely no temptation.

Ofcourse I had a few items missing from my toileteries and personal care  items which i took care off before moving on to checking the other tabs on their website.

The best part of shopping on www.bigbasket.com was the Discounts and Promotion tabs where I could take my own time to decided whether the scheme worked for me or not.I checked out within minutes and opted for Cash on Delivery – since I do not prefer using my Credit Card for household items and Since I was shopping for Rs 400 and more they offered me free Delivery – at a time slot convenient to me… ofcourse I had to fish for the convenient time a bit – but the website assured me that they are working on expanding the slots. I'm not a big fan of the registering on websites.. but I had to unfortunately – they promised me it was a one time thing. And in hind sight it has made all my next round of purchases a lot easier with the website already knowing that i will opt for Cash on Delivery and also the address is already fed in, saving me all that time to re-type is over and over again. 


The delivery was made promptly… and the party was a grand success. The brunch service had a few glitches – things are bound to go crazy with 40 hungry gujratis enjoying their first time experimenting food they could barely pronounce let alone knowing how to write them. Burmese Khow Suey and Chinese Ramen Noodles all prepared Jain Style were my saving grace. 

This post is sponsored by BigBasket.com. The content and opinions are all my own. Thank you for supporting the sponsors that keep Wilderness lucrative and running

Image Source : http://www.huffingtonpost.com

Cherry Blossom Loving !

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Four Things - inspired by the cherry blossoms coloring our city all shades of pink .... 



I sat there the whole of yesterday and today re-evaluating my small agency life. Sometimes start-ups can be tough, especially ones relating to Social Media. Each time I found myself wearing off on these beautiful Spring filled images and brought me back memories of my short lived stay in Japan during the Cherry Blossom seasons !


I want to do to you what Spring does with the cherry trees.


- Pablo Neruda

Yellow Sunshine

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If only yellow and sunny came with cool breeze... like Summers in London or spring in Belgium. I remember Magnolia trees blossoming around our neighbourhood when I was a student on exchange.... Mumbai sunshine has been radiant - blessing us with un-welcomed warmth and light a.k.a Heat Sweat and Grime... If only summer, sunshine and yellow looked like this in Mumbai !

Inspired by our recent golden rays, enjoy a few of my sunny Etsy Faves ....
  1. Felt Kitty Planter by The Yarn Kitchen
  2. Letterpress Print by Thimblepress
  3. Retro Bikini by Rellik Vintage
  4. Yellow Tablecloth by Dreamzzzzz
  5. 80's Sunglasses by Fivestones Vintage
  6. Happy Mail Sticker Set by Pink Olive
  7. Crochet Hair Bow by Plexida
  8. Vintage Linen Napkins by Olive Someday


Images via Happiness Is by Shannone Eileen




It's a Neesh - World !

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My Reality : I sprayed my first pskkkk of Attar yesterday.
My Mind : Attar is a Middle Eastern Women's Aphrodisiac
My Apprehension : It's too strong for my taste. I do not perceive myself very feminine, but when it comes to Perfumes I veer towards florals after testing a bunch of earthy scents - ALWAYS.
My Heart : It is pedestrian to open a glass top bottle and apply perfume with your hand. A Perfume is to be sprayed and walked into.
My Desire : Perfumery or scents should adorn the glass shelves of my dresser. Colourful bottles brighten my day.
My Ambition : Sometime in 2013, I did blog about my desire to make my own perfume, call me crazy !

It's taken me long enough but I sampled Neesh's first bunch of Attar pefumery and I was impressed. All my apprehensions came to a screaching halt. I came home to find a glittering package of the entire range of Neesh's Attars Perfumes.  As a little girl I remember saving my dad's perfume boxes and empty bottles to play with... Neesh's perfume packaging is timeless and beautiful.What captivated me instantly are the colours of each of the product's packaging. 

Brown earthy tones is the colour I got attracted to instantly.
Belle D'Oud  by Neesh. The outdoorsy blend of dark amber and honey and berries aromatics is perfect for a chilly winter. Turns out I wore it for the mid-summer evening on a dinner date with my girls last week and felt just as fresh and a spring/summer delight. I've been reaching for it lately as the sun goes down and my day time perfume has long faded. 





This morning I was feeling colourful and decided to go a little NEON-Y.
Amour de Oude came to my rescue. I generally do not step outside my comfort zone. I'm almost hitting the big 30 next year sometime. But the Neon/Yellow packaging came with a note, its profoundly smoky, and a musk of dark amber. I was hesitant... It did come across a bit too strong, but I soon realised that being natural and not chemical, attar seeps into your skin and grows onto you. I smelled the new summer chic... and needless the say I felt a little transitional in the beginning. It's the same feeling like a spiced biscuit - you either love it or hate it. I would highly recommend it for people who want a change in pace... and go edgy !



I almost feel like a perfume aromatic connaiseur... But as I intend to go from bottle after bottle on each of these Neesh's signature collection I can tell you that this product is breaking free of the ordinary. It has changed the way natural aromatics like attar are seen. Right from the packaging which is handy, fits in my day bag as well as night bag, to the one scent for all aroma range that Neesh has. And the best thing, it is at a comfortable price point and a bottle big enough for your appetite and yet small enough to get into a different groove every few days.. ! 


Check them out on Facebook, Flipkart and other pages for details on what scent best describes you !





   

From Shopping lists to App Carts !

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I am a last minute kid. I studied last minute for exams… I wait for the very last day to fill out visa application forms .. I wait for the very last second before I absolutely need to get dressed for the day… And like all other things I waited for 15/05/2015 to happen to download the #MyntraApp ! I have been the last one to get onto technology ALWAYS. So today – at the very last minute, when I logged into the Myntra website for my Saturday routine.. I was told it has moved to greener pastures – I finally caved. I Went to the APP store, downloaded Myntra and now it is on my home page along with the others - WhatsApp, Facebook, Ola, Zomato, Photo Editor, Instagram and many more. I have joined the bandwagon.

Logging into apps is now just a few clicks to log u in… Immediately I hit on the sort and refine button to see if there were plus sizes available..I have always been a plus size kid – so shopping for me was disaster. With those nasty comments by the retailers, I hated going shopping to see the sheer disappointment in my mother’s face. Somewhere in between what I liked or loved to finding the correct size for me in the ladies department when I was only a child – I kind of  hoped that there was a magic wand I could wave – That I wouldn’t have to make all those disappointing trips between the trial room and the ever shrinking number of designs available as I grew not only in age but also size.

It’s not that I am ashamed of my body weight… I am very much confident under my skin. But if fashion has progressed – I am happy that it is empowering me. I salute companies like #Myntra who have made the big move to an app … Big, pun intended. I cannot even begin to imagine what a relief it is to put those filters of size and colour to sort out through the crazy big collection that they have. I mean if only the actual retail store had that filtration process, it would have scared me lesser. And all this, without wasting my actual time – TIME is always shrinking when you are in my line of business !

I also always wished there was someone who would just put together a wardrobe for me. When I first heard about a profession called a STYLIST, I secretly decided that if I became rich, I will hire one to put together looks and details for me. Now, my mother may call this whole putting together a “LOOK” fraud ! But I say #Myntra you are my #bff. It’s like I am 15 all over again discussing over my fancy new mobile phone on what to wear to college with a friend – she would know my entire wardrobe. I still reach out to my phone – only to pull together something without all that mindless chatter.


So here I am spending a better part of my Saturday afternoon sipping coffee snuggled up on my sofa with my phone... what started off as a little breather has just made my weekend shopping bright. What would take me an eternity, toiling in and out of the crazy bandra shops for the junk followed by an evening at Palladium for the funk, I wrapped up the rhapsody and used the time to enjoy doing NOTHING ! Happy Weekend Cheer and Beer to everyone ! 

Spirituality

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DishaDoshiShahBlog



Friends, I consider myself lucky because I am spiritual. And because i know there is a god above me, I feel I am in a happier space. Using the definition of spirituality as an inner belief system that a person relis on for strength and comfort, it makes perfect sense. 

University of British Columbia study found that children are happier when they feel that their lives have meaning and value. Numerous other studies, many conducted by agnostics, have also demonstrated a close link between spirituality and happiness. A strong internal life purpose enhances our wellbeing.

I am grateful my mother led me down a loving spiritual path while I was young. Ofcourse in India spirituality and religion are often confused, inter changed and used as per convenience. But over the years I have understood that her taking me to a religous meet was not to force me to choose a path led by religious leaders. It was infact encouraging me to question the world, think for myself, and believe what feels true to me. 

This morning I decided to drive my husband, Kunal to work... a few kilometers down the road is a beautiful Jain temple with a wishing tree. I BELIEVE in wishes, I BELIEVE in asking GOD for everything. We are his children and he will deliver. And so I dropped him off and took a solo trip to Shahapur Derasar. The sun was scorching and my feet were burning from the time I took my shoes off and went into the temple... but inside was bliss. They say when you meditate in a room long enough it is scientifically proven to become cooler than the other rooms !! #TrueStory



A photo posted by Disha Doshi (@wildernesstheblog) on


Does it make me a happier person? I think so. It's this connection to a higher power, something greater than myself, that allows me to feel confident and secure with my place on this earth.

What do you think? Do you consider yourself spiritual? If so, does it positively affect your mindset? If not, in what other ways do you fill that space? Leave your comments below - I'd love to know!



The only answer to our [unhappiness] is a pleasure which comes not from the body but from a place deep within us.
- Philospher: Al-Ghazali

Crystals and Gems

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Gemstones are living creatures. They are active participants in nature. Protons, neutrons and electrons are flying around in an absolute bliss of balance and participation, upholding patterns of sacred geometry.



Everything on earth has a vibration, and crystals are no exception. Certain kinds resonate at extremely high frequencies and can raise the vibration of the energy around it, including our own. Some people collect gemstones and wear them as jewelry for this very reason.


For those of you who really really know me, I am knee deep into astrology and everything that is around it. My world goes into lumber if I hear an astrologer is near by. Back in 2010, I was on a trip to Bangalore, where a reknowned astrologist gave me a yellow guru stone to wear in my first finger. Ofcourse I did not like flaunting it. Cast in yellow gold, I dont know whether it got me good fortune of not, the yellow sapphire ring definately gave me immense strength and positivity. I remember 2010 breezing by... work flourished, I went on multiple dates - none with my present husband, lol ! But as a 24 something life couldnt have been better ! It was until I LOST that ring... I remember putting it in a small jewellery box when I was travelling to Africa and then when I came back I forgot all about it. And Never FOUND IT :( I yearn for it to come back into my life.


A Year into my marriage too a Tarot Card reader gave me a pink crystal for a happy married life to be put on my bedside. i believe it is helping me bring positive thoughts into my bedroom ! Kunal and I had been in committed relationships before we met each other... this sometimes caused fricition and I BELIEVE the crytsal has helped in healing our relationship and a much more stable partner towards the other.


Of course science is slow to support any alternative method of healing, but I discovered some pretty cool research that proves crystals and gemstones do have a positive effect on our happiness and emotional well-being. The double-blind study was conducted by world-renowned physician and pain-management expert, Dr. Norman Shealy, who gave one group of clinically depressed participants a genuine quartz crystal and another group a faux crystal made out of glass. They were asked to wear the "crystals" as pendants around their neck without taking anti-depressants. 3 months later, 70% of the people who received the quartz crystal showed no signs of depression. While only 28% of the group who received the glass remained depression-free.


I know if Kunal does not support my GEM STONE facination my father in law will dig the deepest hole in his pocket to fund it ! He is in absolute obssesed state - Kunal calls it the mid life crisis. MEN GET CARS , my father in law gets GEMSTONES... and why shouldnt he. He adores his collection and now plans on writting a book on it too ! #Passion comes in many forms.

So you might want to dig out that old velvet pouch you have hidden away in your drawer and start putting those pretty rocks to use! Got no stones? Start your collection with a crystal curio set!

VINTAGE ENGLISH GARDEN

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EtsyFaves06-VintageEnglishGarden1
VintageEnglishGardenDDS



For today's Etsy Faves, I invite you into my English cottage garden surrounded by sweet smelling blooms to soak up the sun in our vintage floral frocks and sip rose petal tea. Won't you join me?


English Rose Soap by Ravenscourt Apothecary
Vintage Style Floral Watch by FreeForme
Floral Print Bow Bandeau Set by Amourouse
English Garden Herbal Tea by Willow Rose Body Care
Rose Garden Fabric Leaves by Jane Joss
Cotton Voile Floral Day Dress by Manika Atelier
English Garden Wedding Invitation by Fercute
Vintage Floral Earrings by Memory Vendor

Love Struck !

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Hello Lovelies ... I hope everyone is  feeling their toes and fingers and all 20 of them !!  I am still finding my bearings post my little episode yesterday. I was required to go under a full body anesthesia. It was very scary. I was also attached to an IV drip with glucose... Yes the worst is behind me and now I am snuggling with my lover sipping on some Iced Tea.

But apparently when I was in the under world, of course I don't remember any bit of it but Kunal tells me I kept weeping and saying I don't tell him enough how much I love him... ! I still dont know whether that is true of not, whether I really feel that I don't appreciate him enough, I would like to take this moment and tell him how much I Love you Kunal Shah... !

He sat right next to me through the entire morning. Got me fresh juice and water to sip onto all the way back from the doctors. And even when I was home, he propped up the pillows, tucked me into our marital bed and got me some soul food.

I am so very lucky to have him !! I don't know many men who would sit next to me all day, each day and listen to me talking about my unusual dreams, telling him what to do if I die and informing him time and again on the way to deal with the world knowing fully well that I married him because he was world wise in the first place !!

Kunal is the sort of confident guy, who just knows how to make the smallest things seem oh so important and the biggest thing seem surmountable all the time. He is the reason why I have learned how to relax.... he is the reason why i know what things to priporitse and give my everything to.

Kunal, you make my world go round ! Thank you love for being my everything !!

Canvas Love Tote
Be Still My Heart Dress
DIY Heart-Shaped Tea Bags
Awkward Dating Card



Happiness is Contagious !

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Happiness is officially contagious! A Harvard study followed 5,000 people over the course of 20 years, and found that positive emotions spread up to three degrees removed from the original source. Which means, we transfer our happiness to people we interact with directly and to people we haven't even met. Like a chain reaction. When we feel good, you can bet a friend of a friend of a friend will feel good too. And the effects last up to a year. I absolutely love this concept, don't you?


So let's try an experiment....
Right now, make a conscious effort to spread your positive emotions to others.
Get happy. Do whatever necessary to raise your vibration and elevate your mood.
As you interact with people, visualize yourself transmitting a contagious "happy virus" to them.
Notice the positive effect you're having on others. And yourself.
Revel in the fact that your positive emotions will spread to people you don't even know and touch more lives than you ever thought possible.


It's JUNE 1... something crucial is happening in my life right now... it needs happinesss as an ingredient to help me through it ... Who's in? :)

{Original image by John Van Noate}

Cheese, Say Cheese, Cheese Please !

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Hope you are going to aim at eating lots of CHEESE today... today is National Cheese Day, ofcourse that is in america! The good people of AMUL Co-operative are you listeneing ? We need a cheese day !!! I'll be marking June 4th on my calendar to celebrate properly next year with one (or ten) of these cheesy recipes.

You know these diamond ads kind of make you want to analyse your relationships !! I am not a diamond kind of a girl, but i do measure up Kunal's love for me. He who loves his cheese more than anything else especially when its slightly char/ burnt and is flaking from the top of his lasagne, he who keeps it on the side and savours it in his last bite, offered me his best part and let me have the whole thing !!! I had my AWWWW moment... nothing like a tear in those diamond adverts but something that lets me sleep with a smile on my face :)

Mignon Kitchen Cheese Bags
Coeur de Neufchatel Heart-Shaped Cheese
Kitchen Papers By Cake Cheese Markers
Quitokeeto / Jacob May Black Walnut Cheese Board


Ofcourse, watch this space tomorrow to learn how to make your own mozzarella! I am on a cheese-pedition !!

Mozarella without fringes !

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Cheese-pedition as I called it yesterday ! I am one to go to www.bigbasket.com or swing by my neighbourhood Nature'sBasket to buy my cheese. Every since I first attended a cheese part back in Belgium - where I was exposed to 20 different cheese on a platter I realised what a big deal this whole cheese business it. We only knew of amul and Britannia and the cheese world came to a screaching halt !

My second host mom is an experienced cheese-maker and in the few months I lived with her an an Exchange Student, I've watched her play with curds and whey, experimenting with a vast assortment of exotic cheeses. It's definitely one of those things that gets better with practice. Many things can go wrong and they probably will. So I suggest starting with a simple cheese in the beginning, like mozzarella. Plus, it doesn't need to age. Instant gratification!


Here are the basic steps...

INGREDIENTS:
1 gallon of raw or unhomogenized whole milk (not ultra-pasteurized)
2 tsp citric acid dissolved in a ¼ cup of cool distilled water
½ vegetarian rennet tablet dissolved in a ¼ cup of cool distilled water
2 ml of calcium chloride (optional: some say this helps if using store-bought milk)
Salt to taste
5 to 10 ice cubes


INSTRUCTIONS:
Steralize all equipment with boiling water before use.
Poor milk into a large pot.
Stir in diluted citric acid (and optional calcium chloride) into cold milk.
Heat slowly to 90˚F (32˚C), stirring gently.
Take pot off burner, stir in diluted rennet, and let sit for 30 minutes.
When solid, gently cut curds with a long knife into 1 inch cubes (should make a clean cut).
Put pot back on stove and slowly heat curds to 90˚F (42˚C).
Take pot off burner & prepare two bowls of water: one boiling, one cold w/ ice cubes & salt.
Using a slotted spoon, separate the curds from whey into a cheese cloth lined colander.
Scoop curds and submerge them in the hot water bowl (or you can microwave for 1 min).
FUN PART: Stretch and kneed curds with your hands until it has a smooth elastic texture.
Form curds into balls and place them in ice water bath for 10 min before eating. Or eat hot!

There is nothing better than a caprese salad with your own homemade Bocconcini. I mixed them in with yellow cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, lemon, olive oil, salt and lots of black pepper.

Here are 3 cheese-making kits I recommend for your very first batch, all of which I've never personally used or gifted to others but have seen in peoples home of on some famous blogs that i follow !!
Mad Millie
Urban Cheese Craft
New England Cheese-Making Supply Co.

    Istanbul: a mash-up of East and West

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    Istanbul: a mash-up of East and West that vibrates to the rhythm of techno Sufi drums and daily prayers. The city is an expanse of neighborhoods’ that stretches across the tips of Europe and Asia and – even while supporting a population of about 20 million (not all documented) The red bus guided tours had some different numbers to what the tourist guide had to tell us – it has managed to organically unearth itself amongst the hills inbetween the Marmara and Black Seas. Despite this city’s green serenity, the locals carry the age old conflict of East and West within, something clearly visible when one compares the old city surroundings and the chic neighbourhood of Ortakay.

    Thankfully for the traveller, no one in Istanbul is willing to give up the time-honoured legacy of Turkish hospitality from their lost empire. So while the workday moves at a snail’s pace between tea breaks and nargile puffs, the nights are packed with an affable energy that threatens to sweep a visitor off their feet if they don’t mind their ‘ç’ and ‘ș’. Attention to the details of everything pleasurable: food, company and beauty is an essential part of Turkish culture. Istanbul residents’ commitment to this satisfaction of the senses seduces the nose with roasted hazelnuts and perfume, the eyes with the distorted colours of glass lamps, the heart with the salons of homes, and the imagination with the greenish blue eyes of that girl/guy sitting across from you at the cafe.


    The historic Sultanahmet on one side of the Golden Horn, the fun European side of Beyoğlu and its many suburbs on the other and the Asian side divided from the rest of the city by the Bosphorus. All are fascinating and all have their own attractions.The most important thing to do when planning a trip to Istanbul is to allow enough time to explore. Too much to see and too little time is a common catch cry from those returning after a visit to this wonderful city.

    In Sultanahmet


    1.The Topkapi Palace
    The palace was the home of the Ottoman sultans during the 15th to 19th centuries. Four courtyards with beautiful gardens and fountains surround a multitude of buildings housing the Harem…a must see, we Walked to the end of the garden for a fabulous view over the Sea of Marmara.. all while enjoying a dollop of ice cream at the café to beat the heat.



    2. Aya Sofia or Hagia Sofia
    Built in 537 as a Church, it later became a mosque in 1453 and finally, in 1935, a museum. You will be in awe of its beauty as you stand under the dome taking it all in. Take the steps to the gallery where stunning mosaics dating back to the 12th century can be seen. As one of the most beautiful buildings in Istanbul it is a sight that shouldn’t be missed!



    3. Sultanahmet Imperial Mosque or Blue Mosque
    Across Sultanahmet Square facing Aya Sofia stands the city’s main Mosque with its six minarets. It is known affectionately as the Blue Mosque because of the blue Iznik tiles that decorated the walls. You need to make sure you are suitable clothed to enter this mosque. But worry not, they will further cover you up anyway.



    4. Hippodrome
    You will have probably walked over the Hippodrome without realising that this was once the scene of chariot races and the centre of Byzantine life. Three statues still remain here. The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts also overlooks the Hippodrome.



    5. Kalpali Çarsi or Grand Bazaar
    I can guarantee you will get lost in the maze of streets and passages that is the Grand Bazaar. Each trade is congregated in its own area: carpet sellers in one street, goldsmiths in another. There are some good buys on the leather street whilst the arts and crafts, ceramics and brassware areas may also tempt you. You’ll need a rest at some stage so pop into the Fez Cafe in the centre of the old part of the market for beautifully served refreshments and to plan your next stop. Despite many warnings from everyone who has ever been to Turkey, We got lured into buyinh Turkish tea. With Love tea that looks like pot pourri and Apple Tea which tastes like heaven, do you blame me ?




    6. Galata Bridge
    Fishermen line both sides of Galata Bridge day and night. On the level below you’ll find a wide range of fish restaurants. As you walk from the Eminönü, the Galata Tower rises like a beacon. Walk up the Camondo Steps, or take the street that leads you pass the music shops. The historic funicular that runs from Karaköy to Tünel may just be the answer for those that do not like hills!




    7. Walk the length of İstiklal Caddesi to Taksim.Keep walking up the hill from the Galata Tower and you will reach Istanbul’s famous pedestrian avenue, İstiklal Caddesi which you can take all the way to Taksim Square. If you don’t feel like walking, one of the famous historical red trams will be only too happy to take you! Explore the side streets that lead from here…there’s a whole new world waiting to be found!



    8. Smoke hookah. Argilah, nargile, sheesha, hubbly bubbly – whatever you call it, there is an ample supply of hookah bars in Istanbul where you can lounge around while you smoke the water pipe and sip on a class of tea or coffee.


    9. Rainbow Stairs

    If you’re walking from the Istanbul Modern to the Dolmabahçe Palace, keep a look out on the other side of the road for the painted steps that join Findikli to Cihanger (Cafe Nove is on the corner)
    A local resident painted the stairs to brighten the area but two days later the council painted over them in boring grey! There was such an outcry that they were redone! There are now quite a few stairways in the area that have been painted.




    10. Taksim SquareTaksim Square, known as the heart of Istanbul, lies at one end of Istanbul’s famous Istiklal Cadessi. The Independence Monument, at the southern end of the square, commemorates Attaturk’s roles as military commander-in-chief and as a statesman. To the north, Cumhuriyet Caddesi takes you to Nisantasi.




    11. Nişantaşı
    Nişantaşı is Istanbul’s most fashionable shopping and residential area. Besides great shopping, there are some interesting art galleries, fun cafes. Walk down Abdi İpekçi where you will find international labels including Prada, Cartier,Louis Vuitton and even Laduree! There are more cafes and shops on MimKemal Öke and Atiye Sokak

    12. Drink Turkish Coffee
    If you come to Istanbul you have to drink tea out of a tulip-shaped glass. Turkish tea is prepared in a rather unique way using a teapot that has two level: one to boil the water, and the other to brew the tea. You then pour the tea into the glass and dilute it with the hot water so that it’s made to your taste.

    13. Roof top BarsWatching the sun set from one of Istanbul’s many roof top bars is a must! 360 is one such, pverlooking the golden horn is my favourite in Istiklal Caddesi. Just around the corne.






    14. Last and by no means least….eat lots of Turkish food!Where to start…you’ve got to try it all! From the many fabulous bites offered on the street, to cheap and hearty meals to high end restaurants n clubs…Istanbul is a gourmet’s delight. Eat a sesame seed covered pretzel. You can pick up one of these tasty pretzels at any bakery in town, but I suggest you grab one from the little red stands along Istiklal Avenue.





    It just adds to the experience. Eat Turkish pizza. Lahmacun is considered to be the Turkish equivalent of pizza. This thin dough is topped with vegetables and herbs. Or a hearty portion of Kumpir,,, mashed baked potatoes with herbs cheese n vegetable salad !!! my heart yearns for it each time I think of it.







    We went to some stunning restaurants .. REINA which later turns into a club is on the top of the list of every food blogger, tourist list, local list. And it has rightly earned its place there. I am yet to eat a better warm goat cheese salad which topples my senses like the one that did at Reina. Paired with some amazing wine I thoroughly enjoyed my Pizza too. We were later shifted to the club which played a mix of the best international hits.





    For a quite date night my husband Kunal and I would recommend Angelique on a weekday. A table by the bosphorous makes for a romantic setting, no ?



    We also dined at Sortie – the club which boasts many restaurants, Cinquo per Cinquo being the Italian Fare.... with some amazing Cocktails !



    Ofcourse with all that fine dine, we kept lunches to street fares and an afternoon having some finger licking hummus and pita-falafel sandwiches at Falafel House ! Ask for a vegetarian menu and they will be happy and accommodating.





    Have you been to Istanbul? Are there any places you think should be added to this list?If so, I’d love to read about them in the comments!

    Picnic after a fall !

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    Foetus A & Foetus B

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    I have commemorated every life event with a post on my blog… and to not write something so dear to my heart would have been not honoring those two little souls that were Kunal and my everything for the last 4 months. Superstition has it in India that you do not announce the onset of pregnancy in fear that someone will cast an evil eye on you. So after treading the fine line between telling lies and slowly revealing to the inner circle about us being pregnant we had finally officially hit the 3 month mark where we could happily tell of our little secret to others. Oh what a happy time it was. Everything baby related just springs everyone’s attention including your Facebook timeline which thanks to the cookies on your electronic devices knows that you are pregnant. Advertisements from Stem Sell Banking to Baby Center offering a million dos and donts.

    Despite eating the vitamins on time to avoiding Chinese Food… On Wednesday night Kunal lightly rubbed my belly for I was feeling so uneasy. It was the first time in my 18 weeks of pregnancy did I feel this discomfort. Maybe I was tired… could it have been that short walk from Starbucks to the car that has made me this tired ? Could it have been those maternity jeans that were tightening around my growing belly ? I couldn’t tell. These cramps that I had never before experienced just grew stronger and by Thursday morning I was going into full swing labour. To add to this, my water sac was lurching down. But call it prescense of mind or a twisted tale of fate… I reached the hospital before my water broke ! Miraculous… said the doctor. And put me on an operating table where they pushed my babies and the water sac upwards in what was called a complicated procedure which went on for 2 hours and 45 minutes. That day post the Cervix stitch, I was recovering well. I had paused all hopes and dreams for that one day which all came swinging back. HURDLES … I told myself… Kunal and I said silent prayers !

    But they did not reach so much in time to our god… he gave me strength, but to what end ? On Friday evening I went into labour again. This time it was worse. The cramps started 15 minutes apart and started at 11 pm. They went on right through the night… well into the day… till I was told what I was silently pushing aside as cramps was labour pains… they got worse by around 6pm. They were 3 minutes apart and lasted 15 seconds each time… after which I lost count … more like I lost faith..

    The doctor came in at 8pm to check me… but I had just bad news coming my way.. My water had broken… and now it was inevitable. My uterus was weak and couldn’t take the pressure and thus I was going into labour with the burgeoning of a twin pregnancy. But I had to ask one last question… lets try save one ? I asked… but this was not going to be possible either… And there I was, Sitting in a maternity gown on the cold steal of a hospital stretcher outside the operation theatre saying my last good bye to my darling husband who held my hand. He reassured me all was going to be okay.. !!

    OKAY ? How does one see these amazing colourful dreams, think about what kind of parent one is going to be ? Think about all the values that are important and how to impart them to your offspring ? Think about all those birthday parties and school admission and play dates in your head all becoming a blurr and be OKAY ?

    What happened next is a scene I will never forget… Waiting for the aesthetician to come in. Going into the operation room finally after 24 hours of being in labour. Getting the epidural shot… feeling that from the last of your toe nail to your head.. that white clock on the wall to my right showing 11 pm and being told by the doctor that it will last another 2-3 hours until I was fully dialated… that conversation with god for mercy… for not allowing this to go on any further… that ray of hope at 11 20 when I pushed and delivered FOESTUS A… that second push at 11 25 to deliver FOESTUS B…Pushing your tiny souls out of your uterus into this world they will never see… There was no cries of joy… there was no oh it’s a girl… it’s a boy… I had two of those… the room went silent. Their little bodies so tiny, they fit into the kidney shaped tray meant for surgical tools ! They were too small to survive the weight of the world. And what was worse, I, their mother, couldn’t do anything to save them.

    To sit there crying on the table while the world just goes back to doing their job. The nurse pushing the drugs through the IV. The cleaning lady sweeping the rags from the floor. The doctor carrying my little babies out and away from me. They didn’t let me hold them… the trauma they say is something you never get over. The 4D scan from just a few days ago will never be cross referenced. The little ones were tied together into a white cloth and would have a burial the next day. They say you cant cremate them accordingly to the Hindu last rites. They meet their maker buried in a mix cemetery.

    My father held my babies in his hand from the hospital to the cemetery the next morning. Each one took their turns to pay their last respects and that was the last of them. Now they remain as Foetus A and Foetus B in the bunch of medical reports along with a hospital discharge card … Mis-Carriage !
    How easily it was written by the reception staff at the hospital. Once back home we had an array of visitors. Messages poured in from far and wide… some expected, some unexpected. Some sypamthetic and others just a simple line saying they are sorry. Days have gone by.. precisely 40. The tears have dried up.


    "Believe there is a great power silently working all things for good."- Beatrix Potter

    Today, I can truthfully say I'm happy. Happier than I've been in the last 40 days. Which may seem unusual coming from someone who just experienced a loss. I've had friends comment on how well I seem to be doing, questioning how I remain so positive? I don't have a logical answer, except for this:  I believe that our baby is coming. Next month, next year, next decade - the when doesn't matter anymore. How do I know? Through intuition, dreams, and inner dialogues with our child - all things that cannot be scientifically explained or rationalized. I just have an undeniable, unshakable belief.

    "As your faith is strengthened you will find that there is no longer the need to have a sense of control, that things will flow as they will, and that you will flow with them, to your great delight and benefit" - Emmanuel Teney

    And I understand that this will be a part of my story, even if it's the very first chapter of a long dramatic novel. No matter what the outcome, these struggles are defining my character, strengthening my resilience, growing my compassion and shaping me into the person I need to become.

    "Be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars. In the noisy confusion of life, keep peace in your soul". – Max Ehrmann

    Please know, I didn't write this post for sympathy. More than anything, I wrote it to reach out to other women dealing with Miscarriage. Quite a few of you, more than any of us may think, are going through similar trials and emotions. Everyday I hear an aunt or my friends talk about their miscarriage, I was surprised by the number of couples who have gone through this painful loss. My friend and her husband went to a seminar to educate themselves about what they were up against - the auditorium was packed, standing room only.

    So loves, if you think this is the end to start a family, whether you've been trying for a year, or five, I want you to know that you're not alone. I hold my hand out to you, so we may walk this path together.

    FOETUS A : 244 gms, A baby boy… My little Nandi
    FOESTUS B : 252 gms, A baby girl… My little Sacha



    Republic Day Pride

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    Like any other urban Indian student, Republic Day for me was like any other National Holiday. No school, Sleeping in till late and then hearing my father’s story about his time as a Sea-Cadet. The March past in New Delhi that he almost made to and how his friend lost the concessions form of the Railways and how he missed his chance to attend this prestigious moment of his life. My husband Kunal on the other hand, like any other geeky teenager sat glued to the television. Watched the Parade live on Doordarshan and marveled on India’s military prowess.

     I often say this, We are destiny’s Children. The astrological powers in our kundli had our fates written. A Friend’s father Is the current Minister of Law and Justice of India, the honorable Shri D. V. Sadanand Gowda. He has handled various portfolios, including the Chief Minister of Karnataka and the Ministry of Railways. He was so kind enough to extend us an invitation to witness the 67thRepublic Day Parade In New Delhi ! Oh what an absolute Honour it was. Kunal and I were elated. We sent our ID’s 2 weeks prior to the parade for our security clearance. Tickets were booked and our best suits were pressed for THE-DAY !


    We reached a day PRIOR and for the first time I understood what a mission it is to live in Delhi ! The high security alerts at the airport, The multiple check-nakas to be passed before you get out into the city. The roads all marked off.  The 5 km Radius near India Gate was curfewed out by mid-night. The national capital, particularly the Central and New Delhi areas, were brought under unprecedented security blanket as thousands of personnel kept a hawk-eye vigil to thwart any untoward incident. There were intelligence inputs that terror groups may target some important installations in the city. 
     We were to meet at the ministers residence at sharp 7am. The following morning it took us a little under an hour of circling at the Tyag-Raj Marg to understand that we will not be able to enter the area – let alone the minister’s residence  without the required pass.A massive ground-to-air security apparatus was put in place in the national capital. Commandos with light machine guns were deployed at 10 strategic locations and anti-aircraft guns remained positioned at vantage points in the capital. The entire region of Central and New Delhi had nearly 50,000 security personnel drawn from Delhi Police and central security forces guarding every nook and corner.  Under this situation we stood in 7 degree temperature on a big round about and made a few calls. Mr. Shetty, our Minister’s P.A.  was kind enough to come on a long morning walk in his best suit to come give us our pass and allow us to enter the road leading to his residence.


    We were greeted so warmly by this humble man. Mr Gowda reminisced about his days with the BJP party and his trials and tribulations to get to where he is today over tea and snacks. The day took on its course then..IT started with a flag hoisting ceremony at his residence after which I took my first ride in a LAL-BATTI walli car. I was absolutely elated ! It was the first time I understood that POWER is different from MONEY. We were a part of the 4 car convoy on our way to the saluting gallery. 

    We went through the necessary security protocol and were shown to our seats. We were a party of a thousand people who were there to watch the nation’s pride. Slogans of Bharat Mata Ki Jai … Vande Mantram made the crowds swell with pride.



     French President Francois Hollande was among the guests of Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi invited to view the spectacle of the parade held in New Delhi, filled with marching bands, floats, camels, military hardware, and stunt performers. French soldiers also took part in the parade. It is thought to be the first time a foreign army contingent has participated in India's celebrations.


     Colourful floats from various Indian states, traditional dances, and gymnastics by children were also part of the event.A Dog squad of India’s paramilitary units also participated for the very first time !

    A total of 23 tableaux were on display at the ceremonial parade with 17 of them belonging to various states and Union Territories.  The tableau of Gujarat depicted rare and exotic varieties along with the Sidi community settled in the Gir forest, performing their traditional dance.  


    The heart throb of the event was the Indian Aviation’s gallant display. A breath-taking ‘Trishul’ formation comprising three Su-30 MKI of No. 24 Squadron flew over the Rajpath. Trailing them was the ‘Globe formation’ comprising one C-17 Globemaster flanked by two Su-30s, followed by the fighters, where five Jaguars flew in Arrowhead formation, another five MiG-29 Air Superiority Fighters called the ‘Tridents’ flew in Fulcrum style.  

    The end of the parade was marked by a single Su-30MKI fighter pulling up vertically in front of the reviewing stand while carrying out so-called vertical Charlie rolls. I can still close my eyes and experience its vibrations in my heart.


    Like all good things, the Republic Day Parade was all but 90 minutes. The sun came out a few times but the clouds kept us chilled but enough for us to enjoy the spectacle. The Afternoon ended with a hearty Indian Meal and a promise to play catch up of the parade every year even if we do not get these life changing experiences. The Invite to the event now is kept in a straight format with all the other important household papers and is something I am going to cherish for a long time !!



    Koh Samui never aged !

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    Koh Samui…is like that cool uncle who never aged… I first fell in love with Koh Samui when I was all but 18. At almost 30 now I can say, Koh Samui rather than becoming OLD and passee, it has embraced a new generation of resort goers, many of them upscale. Fine stretches of sand clogged with beach loungers, almost rubbish free roads, world class international cusiine, luxurious spas that are dirt cheap and beach bar parties for the scantily clad 20-something that start at noon. They say Koh Samui has a quieter side with long, tourist free stretches of wild and shaggy coconut palms. But if I really needed the quite  would I go that far now?

    We travel not to escape life ... But for life not to escape us ! 



    I have always mainted, I am the quintessential city girl who loves her hustle and bustle. I find that almost meditative ! I love the steaming streets-side food stalls, I love backpackers shanties as much as I love those ultra modern beach bars serving fancy over priced cocktails. I love my street side shopping and bargaining as much as I love walking into that open air mall only a tourist place can offer ! Koh Samui is everything that I love and more.



    Koh Samui is glossy in the night and a sleepy town by day. It really wakes and breathes life only after 5. Something I absolutely love ! I went with my sister Dhwani and friends, Ami, Pankti, Jinal and Varun and we were living at The Novotel Kandaburi, which is 5 mins by a tuktuk from Chaweng beach. The beach here is relaxing, Crowded enough to find an eye candy in his beach shorts lazying and reading a book but not that crowded that you want to walk further and further down the strip to find some peace and quite. During the day we enjoyed relaxing by the pool and enjoying cocktails. The hotel is literally on the beach and we enjoyed our time dipping in the ocean and enjoying vendors coming to us with fresh cut food and corn on the cob. 





    There are a few things I highly recommend. A Day trip snorkelling/ scuba diving to Ang Thong National Marine Park which is made up of an archipelago of about 40 small islands combining sheer limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, white-sand beaches and dense vegetation providing a postcard-perfect vista almost anywhere you look.




    The numerous caves and crevices are home to nesting swallows and there's a narrow coral reef in the southwest of the park. From Ko Samui, a couple of tour operators run day trips to the Ang Thong archipelago. We booked a Kayaking tour. For as awesome as the picture looks, we were very happy discovering all the caves surrounded by the endless waters... but there comes a time when you look back and find you are miles away from the beach that you first started at. I just want to say this... it was quite an upper body workout ! 




    But once we hit the shore, the cool wind under the winter sun, on a hammock made everything worth it ! A word of caution, and it might just be my stupidity to carry it with me, but I lost my first and only hat while kayaking :(




    The evenings are very easy to fill up. Once we hit Chaweng, there are plenty of things to do. We watched a Muay-Thai Boxing Match at the Chaweng Boxing Stadium. Grotesque to say the least but an experience which makes all rocky balboa movies look real to me for the very first time ! 



     

    At Samui’s northern end, on a small rocky island linked by a causeway, is Wat Phra Yai. Erected in 1972, the modern Buddha (sitting in the Mara posture) stands 15m high and makes an alluring silhouette against the tropical sky and sea. 




     

    Ark Bar with its fireworks display every Wednesday and Saturday makes the 9pm slot easy to fill. Head over to see the stunts and smoke some sheesha. The staff is a little flustered, ofcourse with reason, years of dealing with drunken men and women of all ages and sizes have given them frown lines !


     Another good place of sheesha, drinks and good music is Solo Bar. Head over there for some pre-dinner cocktails and you will find a whole mix of people. If you over hear them, they are talking in all different languages with insertions of Ang Thong, Koh Tao and Koh Phan Gang ... so you know they really are making sight seeing or next day plans or simply discussing what to do ! It's when you go to a place of mix-cultures that I really go down nostalgia and remember my trip to belgium as a student of the Rotary's Youth exchange program.. .. Click here to hear all about my experience. 




    When in Thailand, have some soul food comprising of a good Thai Curry with Steamed / Bamboo Rice. Terminal D is a Wine and Resto Bar has Some amazing food options for the hungry traveler ! 




    If you get tired of Thai Food, I would recommend Gringos cantina on Chaweng street for some Tex-Mex !  Blue Berry Margaritas anyone ?? 




    For Deli style fresh food, excellent coffee and sandwiches, hummus and falafels head over to Magnolias. Ask for Dahliya the Israeli owner and she will give you the warmest hug ! This is on my MUST-GO-AGAIN list ! 




    LA-TAVERNA is an un-missable ITALIAN restaurant on Chaweng Street ! I can fly to Koh Samui, quickly eat the ricotta ravioli in sage butter sauce and fly back and still think its a dream.. ! Pair it with a wine or two and you are all set for an evening of happiness ! 




    But happiness comes in many proportions on the island of Koh Samui. It can also come from a street side food cart selling crepes. They all do amazing crepes to be honest. Nutella or cream cheese and onion, anything is going to make you smile cheek to cheek.




    Give me street food and I will be happy... give me a cocktail in a fanastic bar with a picturesque sceneary and you will see my happiness !! We went to On The Rocks Bar at the Six Senses Koh Samui. It's Simple and understated decor actually compliments the breath taking views this bar has to offer. We actually went there for dinner, but we didnt make the reservation mark. So if you plan on heading there, do make reservations before hand. 




    The tuktuk will literally take you everywhere you need to go. NEGOTIATE NEGOTIATE NEGOTIATE .... ! Everything will come at half the price including a massage at an upscale place or simply a wrist watch which the shop owner claims is a first copy ! 


    The street markets sell everything you will need to survive a beach location. From Flip flops to sunscreen. So you dont have to worry about what you forgot back home. It will also sell you things you really dont need. Like the carved hand made soap which I am now struggling to finish or those amazing hanging paper mache lights which got slightly squished on the way back home or my black hat from the first picture which i lost to the sea.... but Koh Samui makes everyone happy ! I cannot wait to go back  there. This time with my darling husband Kunal, who I missed so much throughout my trip. 


    Cuba .. The forbidden fruit

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    When I think of Cuba, I always think of my first night back in Havana after a whirlwind trip getting to CUBA … From Santo Domingo we left at Mid-Day and reached at about half past 6 in the evening. At the airport , a crowd of passengers awaiting their cling film wrapped kraft paper boxes bringing back everything – from tiny screws to motor spare parts, each carrying atleast 8/10 pieces of baggage while we struggle with that one extra bag no body wants to carry around and the check in refused to take. The entire ordeal which took about an hour and half to finish. …. Once on the streets, being transported to the hotel in a modern mini-van juxtaposition to the vintage cars racing to get home…  in the old city area of Havana…the busy atmospheric streets, the snapshots of lives lived out in the open, and the unmistakable aromas: tropical papaya mixed with tobacco leaf, petrol and musty carpets. Cuba is a forbidden fruit, a complex country of head-scratching contradictions. Like the lonely planet I grabbed before getting to Cuba rightly describes it “Cuba is like a prince in a poor man’s coat; behind the sometimes shabby facades, gold dust lingers. It’s these rich dichotomies that make travel here exciting, exhilarating roller-coaster ride it is. Trapped in a time warp and reeling from an economic embargo that has grated for more than half a century, this is a country where you can wave goodbye to Western certainties and expect the unexpected.”


    We were staying on the beautiful Malecon in Hotel Melia Cohiba. The Malecon is a promenade facing the sea, around it many buildings lie ruined and tattered like aging dowagers waiting for a facelift. Meticulously preserved, where grandiose lobby with its gold edged railings and a magnificient lobby bar and restaurant tell erstwhile tales of opulence and intrigue. We were in the Level Room which is the higher category New Rooms in the hotel. From our 21st floor Sea Facing room and city facing jaccuzzi Cuba looks timeworn but magnificent, dilapidated but dignified, fun yet maddeningly frustrating - Cuba is a country of indefinable magic.



    Each day streams of wave-dodging Buicks and Chevrolets travel the length of the Malecon from the gray hulk of the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta to the borders of Miramar. You can hail one from wherever you are – but the best ones are booked in advance – like we did – to travel in style and luxury. You can also find them right outside the Capitolio Nationale aka the White House of Cuba. 



    We hopped into our Chevy and we drove around the city. Our first stop was the Plaza de la Revolución. Conceived by French urbanist Jean Claude Forestier in the 1920s, the gigantic Plaza de la Revolución (known as Plaza Cívica until 1959) was part of Havana's 'new city,' which grew up between 1920 and 1959. As the nexus of Forestier's ambitious plan, the square was built on a small hill (the Loma de los Catalanes) in the manner of Paris' Place de l'Étoile, with various avenues fanning out toward the Río Almendares, Vedado and the Parque de la Fraternidad in Centro Habana. Surrounded by gray, utilitarian buildings constructed in the late 1950s, the square today is the base of the Cuban government and a place where large-scale political rallies are held. In January 1998, one million people (nearly one-tenth of the Cuban population) crammed into the square to hear Pope Jean Paul II say Mass. The ugly concrete block on the northern side of the plaza is the Ministerio del Interior, well known for its huge mural of Che Guevara (a copy of Alberto Korda's famous photograph taken in 1960) with the words Hasta la Victoria Siempre (Always Toward Victory) emblazoned underneath. In 2009 a similarly designed image of Cuba's other heroic guerrillero, Camilo Cienfuegos, was added on the adjacent telecommunications building. Its wording reads: Vas Bien Fidel (You're going well, Fidel).

    Dominated by two unequal towers and framed by a theatrical baroque facade designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini, Havana's incredible cathedral was once described by novelist Alejo Carpentier as 'music set in stone.' one of the oldest in the Americas. The remains of Columbus were brought here from Santo Domingo in 1795 and interred until 1898, when they were moved to Seville Cathedral in Spain. A curiosity of the cathedral is its interior, which is classical rather than baroque and relatively austere. Frescoes above the altar date from the late 1700s and the paintings that adorn the walls are copies of originals by Murillo and Rubens. You can climb one of the towers for CUC$1.


    Laid out in 1559, Plaza Vieja (Old Square) is Havana's most architecturally eclectic square, where Cuban baroque nestles seamlessly next to Gaudí-inspired art nouveau. Originally called Plaza Nueva (New Square), it was initially used for military exercises and later served as an open-air marketplace. Sprinkled liberally with bars, restaurants and cafes, Plaza Vieja today has its own micro-brewery, the Angela Landa primary school, a beautiful fenced-in fountain and, on its west side, some of Havana's finest vitrales (stained-glass windows).


    Made famous thanks to the rum-swilling exploits of Ernest Hemingway (who by association instantly sends the prices soaring), this is Havana's most celebrated bar. A visit here has become de rigueur for tourists who haven't yet cottoned on to the fact that the mojitos are better and (far) cheaper elsewhere.


     

    Past visitors have included Salvador Allende, Fidel Castro, Nicolás Guillén, Harry Belafonte and Nat King Cole, all of whom have left their autographs on La Bodeguita's wall – along with thousands of others (save for the big names, the walls are repainted every few months). Let me know if you find Disha & Kunal 2016 there somewhere in the madness...



    On the corner of Plaza de la Catedral, this cultural center contains the melodious Cafe Amarillo and an exhibition center named after the island's most celebrated painter - Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wilfredo Lam. Rather than displaying Lam's paintings, it serves as a gallery for revolving temporary exhibitions of modern painters.


    You don't have to be an Añejo Reserva quaffer to enjoy the Museo del Ron in the Fundación Havana Club, but it probably helps. The museum, with its trilingual guided tour, shows rum-making antiquities and the complex brewing process, but lacks detail or passion. 
    A not overgenerous measure of rum is included in the price. The museum sits opposite Havana harbor.

    In a country not short of icons, the cigar is one of Cuba's most enduring images. Even if you have no interest in the product itself, a tour of a cigar factory is a must: you'll see workers rolling tobacco by hand and hear the lector (reader) employed to keep the workers entertained in a tradition dating back to the 19th Century. 


    Continue to a rum factory to see how another celebrated Cuban export is produced and to sample different varieties in the tasting room. Both visits offer the chance to buy souvenirs – a great way to bring the essence of Cuba back home with you….. We ended out tour on a beautiful Carribean style Patio with some Cuban Singers on their traditional musical intrusments & the lead singer singing folklores. The Cigar Maestro explained to us how to thoroughly enjoy our Cigar paired with our Rum… One experience that shouldn’t be missed I say ! When in Cuba – definitely drink the Cuba Libre ! 


    Our sojourn in Cuba was perfect, thanks to our Guide Leo. This young man navigated us through the bylanes, gave us stories from the dark side of growing up in an EMBARGO country… some stories that truly make you believe that there is life without Internet and an economy that can run without the support of the United States…. Stories of valour, stories of economic oppression… stories of an adulthood which is much like ours in many ways and yet different. Leo Doubles up as a waiter in Atelier, a fine dine Italian restaurant, whose claim to fame is having served the OBAMAS in their historic visit. We enjoyed the Pasta and the desserts there – they understand Vegetarian so easily… which is their big plus point and everyone from the server to the waiting staff all speak impeccable English and are super friendly.

    With Leo, who also introduced us to this art gallery owner, who is also a photographer who made me the best cold coffee with local dark chocolate in this gallery cafe... this place hides behind plaza de armas ... It has a very Miami vibe, something I was to learn only later when I actually visited Miami. 

    For a quick deli style meal, in between your walking tour, near the Capitale is El Del Frente, sit on the open air terrace for the world's best Tacos and a side of Guacamole to die for ... we went twice - because we loved it so much ! The place is impossible to find without Google Maps, download an offline version before you enter Cuba, else good luck finding a good Internet speed to do that while on location ! 


    We also ate at Cafe Artes de Aguillar ... they have the best Cuba Libre and a winning cocktail list. The Pasta fare is worth going for. 

    There is also a Hukkah bar - for the addicts like me. Head over to Enventos - the place is nothing fancy... but in a quite street not far from the Malecon. Call before going to not be disapppinted - they sometimes run out of flavour and wait for their good friends to travel to Miami to bring them back ! This is Cuba, it can frustrate you one minute and unexpectedly inspire you the next... Leo sourced the most amazing Cuban Cigar's for us at half the rate of the factory price, since his future mother in law worked as a tourist guide within the Cigar factory... he even brought back some local ones far better than those exported for us to try. He went out of his way to find someone who could drive us safely back home after Enventos so that we wouldn't have to pay Tourist money since he behaved like he was family ! I loved Cuba's robust culture, and its wonderfully preserved history which is on its way to changing. Go there before they start to please the American tourists dying to go there and loose a little bit of themselves slowly and surely like the rest of the world ! 


    Zambia ... Rivers Safaris and Family

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    Zambia beckoned me after 5 years … The country that made me my own person ! It was exciting for me especially because I went there with Kunal for the very first time … He had yet to see a little part of my life which remained in stories up until then.  Zambia’s capital of Lusaka deserves to be more than simply a pit stop or way station between national parks – its modernity as opposed to other African Nations and cosmopolitan mix of people offer a window to understanding the country as a whole. The city’s young and stylish hit the happening restaurants and clubs, many of which are in and around Manda Hill and Arcades Shopping Centre. While admittedly overwhelming to the senses, the city’s outdoor markets are worth experiencing to see how ordinary Lusakans do their everyday shopping.

    Our First stop had to be in Chinika where we visited our factory … It was such a proud moment for me when everyone welcomed us !! They were happy to see me but I was happier seeing them..

    The rewards of travelling in Zambia are those of exploring remote, mesmerising wilderness as full of an astonishing diversity of wildlife as any part of Southern Africa. Adventures undertaken here will lead you deep into the bush where animals, both predators and prey, wander through unfenced camps, where night-time means swapping stories around the fire and where the human footprint is nowhere to be seen. Where one day you can canoe down a wide, placid river and the next raft through the raging rapids near world-famous Victoria Falls.

    Though landlocked, three great rivers – the Kafue, the Luangwa and the Zambezi – flow through Zambia, defining both its geography and the rhythms of life for many of its people. For the independent traveller, however, Zambia is a logistical challenge, because of its sheer size, dilapidated road network and upmarket facilities. For those who do venture here, the relative lack of crowds means an even more satisfying journey.

    We were lucky because my dad together with business friends had it all arranged for us. We hit the road on day 1 post factory visit instantly. We visited the Kafue temple which every Indian residing in Zambia is so very proud of. No trip is complete without a pit stop here !! 

    We continued on a beautiful ride up until Chinika border town and then a dilapilated road for the next hour to arrive at the Kiambi River Lodge ! There are lodges small and large each overlooking the Kiambi River ... Ours was beautiful ... The Lodge , Bar and Dining Area is constructed of natural materials: thatch, reeds and stone flooring with Rhodesian teak furnishings transporting us in Minutes for the whole Jungle Safari theme.

    We took the sunset trip down the River Zambezi which I highly recommend. The driver cum guide ponited the various Animal and Bird Life typical of the region
    The setting along the banks of the Zambezi is incredible. Looking out at the elephants, cape buffalo and hippo's grazing on the islands…And those Carmine Bee Eaters look a Magical shade of red against the muddy banks !!

    On our way back we stopped by a Banana plantation. A quick chat with the workers on the Plantation revealed there is so much more to this produce than what meets the eye. Science, Cold Storage and an advanced knowledge of irrigation system has made exporting Bananas so much easier. We plucked and ate one right from the bunch and enjoyed its sweet taste …. Oh Mother Nature !!


    We returned to Lusaka for the night and immediately hit the Pro-Flight Tarmac to South Luangwa National Park… if you are a group of 12 it maybe just over 30$ extra per person to charter a flight. For scenery, variety and density of animals, South Luangwa is the best park in Zambia and one of the most majestic in Africa. Impalas, pukus, waterbucks, giraffes and buffaloes wander on the wide-open plains; leopards, of which there are many in the park, hunt in the dense woodlands; herds of elephants wade through the marshes; and hippos munch serenely on Nile cabbage in the Luangwa River. 



    The bird life is also tremendous: about 400 species have been recorded.The focal point is Mfuwe, an uninspiring though more prosperous than average village with shops as well as a petrol station and market.  We were picked up at the Mfuwe Air Strip , you cant really call it an airport ! On Our way we gave a lift to a herd  of chattering school going girls who sang local as well as Bollywood songs thanks to Zee Channels penetration ...




    Around 1.8km further along is Mfuwe Gate, the main entrance to the park, where a bridge crosses the Luangwa River. Much of the park is inaccessible because of rains between November and April.
    We stayed at Mushroom Lodge … which looked like our second home because my mother and sister ran a vegetarian cooking lesson for the staff through all the days we stayed there.

    The Safari staff  ran excellent day and night wildlife drives. These activities are included in the rates charged by the upmarket places, while the cheaper lodges/camps can organise things with little notice.
    The wide Luangwa River is the lifeblood of the park. It rises in the far northeast of Zambia, near the border with Malawi, and flows southward for 800km. It flows all year, and gets very shallow in the dry season (May to October) when vast midstream sandbanks are exposed – usually covered in groups of hippos or crocodiles basking in the sun. Steep exposed banks mean animals prefer to drink at the park’s numerous oxbow lagoons, formed as the river continually changes its course, and this is where wildlife viewing is often best, we had some really good close-ups, especially as the smaller water holes run dry.

    We would return to the lodge for lunch and a rest. But soon enough, it was time to head out again. We left in the afternoon, still suitable for viewing game. We would stay out past sunset and drive into the night, hoping to see nocturnal activity. This particular afternoon was one to remember. The best part about South Luwanga, aside from the healthy large populations of animals and the few and far between tourists, is that unlike many more commercialized game preserves, the drivers at Mfuwe aren’t restricted only to the dirt road. Peter was never afraid to make his own tracks, in fact he did it all the time. While some may say this is dangerous, I never felt like I was in eminent danger. Yes, sometimes being so close to dangerous predators was scary but it was also lost in excitement..
     exhilarating that I always got lost in the excitement. 


    After having seen The Leopard .. The Lion … The Lion Cubs in the first two safaris , all we asked was The Kill … I Mean we were being greedy but every safari goer wants to tick this off their list, don’t we ?? The Kill – There are two ways to look at how a person who follows the Jain Faith looks at it – The educated me looked at it as a nature’s cycle. The smaller gets eaten by the larger and in turn the largest feasts – Law of the Jungle … and then it’s the Heart that feels bad at wanting to see THE KILL. If you are my mother you will hear the sound of Crushing Bones and 6 Lions over a poor Impala feasting and think you have added to bad karma. She did not eat dinner that day to pay penance at feeling helpless that she couldn’t do anything while us children photographed and snap chatted away !!



    As the night sky took over, a whole new world of animals came to life. Like the spotted Hyena leave the bushes and make their way ...


    Elephant numbers are very healthy, even though ivory poaching in the 1980s had a dramatic effect on the population. This park is also a great place to see lions and leopards (especially on night drives). We saw a heard of 6 lion in a kill, 2 cubs with an injured Lioness and a Leopard in a kill thanks to the amazing tour guide and spotter !!

    No trip to Zambia is complete without a visit to Victoria Falls … Taking its place alongside the Pyramids and the Serengeti, Victoria Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya – the ‘smoke that thunders’) is one of Africa’s original blockbusters. And although Zimbabwe and Zambia share it, Victoria Falls is a place all of its own.

    As a magnet for tourists of all descriptions – backpackers, tour groups, thrill seekers, families, honeymooners – Victoria Falls is one of Earth’s great spectacles. View it directly as a raging mile-long curtain of water, in all its glory, or peek precariously over its edge from Devil's Pools; the sheer power and force of the falls is something that simply does not disappoint.

    Whether you’re here purely to take in the sight of a natural wonder of the world, or for a serious hit of adrenalin via Micro Flight like we did above the Zambezi, Victoria Falls is a place where you're sure to tick off numerous items from that bucket list.

    There are so many people to thank for this successful trip but most of is my parents who are constantly pushing us to try different things ... to explore terrains not many people venture out to and always being our biggest critics !!! This trip and every other trip we take with them are full of learnings worldwise and otherwise... Love you guys. 


    7 days in Malta

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    When Kunal and I promised ourselves to each other – we always knew we are going to keep up with our love for travelling - baby on board or not ! So the first chance we got post baby, when she was finally fully on formula and now eating solids like she was always meant to enjoy the good foods of the world, we took off to Malta !
    Why Malta, everyone always asks me – We wanted a perfect beach holiday but some place where there would not only be a bunch of good restaurants and beaches but also a thriving  night life – I was almost on the brink of forgetting what it was to be awake till 4am and in high heels ,slightly intoxicated.
    Getting there from Mumbai – It’s a long flight … Mumbai – Dubai-Malta ( with a one hour halt in Larnanca, Cyprus on the latter flight ) It sure did feel super long because it was also the longest I had been away from my Baby ! All I could think was of when I will get to the hotel room, connect to the Wi-fi and video chat with her.  Yes, Separation anxiety exists even in the most carefree souls like mine. Tip to First time Mothers who are travelling without the baby – Avoid video calling. Its hard on your baby to see her mom on the screen and not picking her up… but its even harder on you to see her stretch her arms trying to reach for the screen and you not be able to pick her up and squeeze her. Post video call and a few tears later… We were in the moment ! Alone – yes, without our baby, for the first time, Kunal and I felt Alone, We are a UNIT !!

    But it took a quick shower, a little nap and a walk around the block onto the promenade where the Blue Azure waters of Sleima Harbour took our breath away.


    Where to Stay ? – St Julians is the heart of the city with most clubs and bars , but it can get really crowded from June – Sept. Sleima is the shopping district and also the harbor from where the ferry to Gozo and Comino start. Either way, this island nation is small and everything is only a few mins cab ride away. We stayed at the Palace Hotel, Sleima… the rooftop swimming pool and bar have the most stunning views of the waters on one side and the city and harbor on the other.

    How to get Around ? Taxify is the Uber of Malta ! Cheap and easily available. It is also recommendable to get a small car to go around, but the roads are small and parking can be difficult and google maps is tricky around the city center and Valetta.


    We started with the most fantastic meal at Barracuda in St Julians – we were booked for the chef’s tasting menu, and boy were we impressed ! We thoroughly enjoyed the first of the celebrations for Kunal’s birthday week !


    The next day we walked around Valletta, Malta’s historic capital city. Its incredible beauty, history and culture make it one of the best city break destinations in all of Europe.  Throughout history, Malta’s desirable location in the Mediterranean, below Italy and north of Libya, has drawn many nations to stake their claim on this tiny island: First came the Phoenicians, followed by the Romans, Normans, Habsburgs and finally the British from whence it received its independence in 1964 and went on to become a republic in 1974, and finally entered into the European Union in 2004. All of whose influence can be found in some part of the city … each leaving their own mark. 



    One of Valletta’s best attractions is simply its gorgeous landscapes. Walk around the Upper Barracca Gardens and enjoy panoramic views of the city’s charming Grand Harbor. The public park, which sits atop Valletta’s historic fortifications, is an ideal spot for a picnic or a romantic stroll. If you’re looking to extend your scenic walk, the Lower Barracca Gardens are equally stunning.

    Whilst Valletta’s natural scenery, the sun-drenched coastline and the sparkling Mediterranean, provide a scenic backdrop, the city’s man-made structures are also worth mentioning. You don’t have to be an architecture enthusiast to enjoy the striking beauty of 16th-century Baroque St. John's Co-Cathedral; the 18th-century Rococo palace—home to the National Museum of Fine Arts; and the many grand, Renaissance-era buildings that line its cobblestone streets. All this can be best enjoyed on foot, or you can zip around the city center like us on the Segway Tour which takes you to the city center and all the way down to the harbor.

    Foodies feel right at home in Malta, where the cuisine is a brilliant mix of Italian favourites, North African flavours and age-old recipes unique to Malta’s rich heritage. If you’re dining out in the city, head to one of the many Trattoria on Melita Street. These cosy eateries have attracted many a famous celebrity. We also ate at the Blue Elephant in the Hilton, it is surely a miss, although it came highly recommended to us by several folks.

    The following evening we found ourselves in Mdina – the silent city. About 30 mins inside the mainland - Honey-coloured walls offer some much-needed shelter from the pervading wind or sun depending on the weather you find yourselves in Malta..It’s such a small city that you won’t get lost for more than a minute, so you can wander down whichever pretty streets take your fancy.




    You can also get higher up on the walls in Bastion Square – the main (very attractive) square in the city full of gorgeous Baroque buildings. You’ll also notice that the street signs are all on ceramic plaques, which is rather nice.

    We reached Mdina as the streetlamps lit up. We’d read that you have to see it at dusk or night to appreciate its eerie silence. We didn’t wait until it was late enough when we got there to appreciate the street lighting at night, but we definitely got the emptiness. We were the only people there, apart from one other couple we passed. We dined at the fancy 
    De Mondion – such places are meant for celebrations – like bringing in Kunal’s birthday !!!


    Consistently rated amongst the top restaurants in Malta for the soul nourishing cuisine, refinement and excellence, the de Mondion promises discreet yet impeccably attentive service allowing patrons the time and privacy to savour the cuisine, the company and surrounded by the frequent colourful firework displays for the nearby village festas. The wine was superb and well recommended by the sommelier.
    That evening, when we reached Sleima and were about to decide where to head next, GianPula found us. Like all epic plans that are never a part of the plan, this fell right into place. We saw a bunch of people walking towards what clearly looked like a party bus. Everyone showing their hands with the tag of some event, young boys high fying and girls retouching their make up and saying they were only going to have the best night of their summer…. Kunal and I did feel maybe we were a bit too old for this, but then again we decided – if it wasn’t for us – we will take the taxi back home ! And that’s how GianPula happened.

    An original Maltese hunting lodge converted into  a popular clubbing village on the island, Gianpula is made of a collection of a huge disco complex with several gardens, nice music, adults customers, an amazing rooftop pool, - located on the road connecting Mdina to Zebbug, in the middle of the countryside is not easy to find. But once you are inside the entire vibe is different. We went to The Rooftop – which serves South American Tapas, Drinks, and Sheesha !!! What more can a girl ask for ? Oops, In my casé what more can the birthday boy wish for ?? By the end of that night, we felt we ticked the whole "be up till 4am, drinking and dancing till the high heels hurt !!!"

     So the next day was just the perfect plan , to feel in our 30's again – we planned to take a Yatch out at sea. We visited the beautiful island of Comino. From Sleima harbor you can rent these beauties out for the entire day like we did or you can also rent them by the hour.


    The ride to Comino Island is incredibly picturesque. Have your camera ready for shots of the beautiful caves and sea cliffs along the route there. It’s a quick trip from anywhere in Malta and the journey is Instagram-worthy from beginning to end. As soon as you arrive at Comino Island, you will see how crazy popular this place is. There are always tons of people arriving at once. Normally, anything so touristy puts me off a bit, but this place is worth it.

    You can’t blame tourists for crowding in to see this gorgeous spot! The Blue Lagoon is shallow. It’s basically a giant swimming pool. The water is calm, shallow, and crystal clear. It’s a good place to snorkel or just enjoy the cool water. There are tons of water sports that can be enjoyed – we sat on the bumpy bed/ speed boat and bhoy o bhoy did we feel 16 again.

    The best part of being parked in the blue lagoon – you have a speed boat that goes around to come take your orders for food, drinks, ice cream and any other essentials – we called for a warm pizza and some wine – and was the perfect meal post our dip in the sea. This is the luxe life – and the moment where I forgot I am Mom !

    That evening we dined at Caviar and Bull. One would ask what are two vegetarians doing in a sea food and meat speciality restaurant ? But will you believe me when I say this : If their Lobster is their specialty , their Goat Cheese Filo Pastry Puffs may as well be at par ! It was little pieces of heaven melting in the mouth. We had the degustation menu – accompanied by some amazing cocktail.

     

    We were seated on the balcony over looking St Georges Bay. What a fine evening looking at the sun set and the wind ruffling our hair…. We were one of the last few to leave… but we left savoring our chocolate cake and memories of that Maltese Evening

    For our last evening we went to St Julian and walked around Paceville… Paceville is the bustling city center of St Julian. … Can also be called a street full of Hugo’s terrace bar, Hugo’s Sheesha, Hugo’s Bar … all things Hugo.

    We got to enjoy a Fifa Match in Hugo’s terrace with a few drinks followed by Sheesha in one of the lounges on that street. The lounges all look and feel almost the same- its like one big party street. Although the crowd is younger – more for people on the Bachelor / Bachelorette parties = big rowdy crowd.

    Malta also has some really big Casinos… The Westin Dragonarais one of them. Kunal made a few, I lost a few … we squared it off well ;)

    Malta does not have too much sight seeing, but a big part of the Maltese culture are the The Maltese village festa - They are the distilled essence of all that is Mediterranean in one event. These feasts combine colourful lights, band music, noisy and bright fireworks displays, and a crowd of hundreds spilling out of bars onto the noisy streets into one orgy of celebration.

    It’s an experience of food, drink, music and fanfare. Food stalls line the streets serving everything from hot dogs to traditional fare. Try some mqaret - deep fried date cakes. These are sinfully delicious and a bag full will set you back less than 2 Euros. Another artisanal treat is nougat. You’ll find many selling this favourite treat known as qubbajt in Maltese. Sellers normally have dark wooden stalls with antique weighing scales to serve the sugary treat.

    Band marches are an integral part of the celebration. The local band performs festa favourites, many of which will be composed by local maestros. As they march through the streets and towards the church, the crowds often follow behind.The ceremonial highlight of any festa is the carrying of the statue. Festa devotees bid for the privilege of hoisting the statue out of the church and onto a prominent place in the village square. This is usually accompanied by a roaring crowd cheering them on. Go for a quick walk around the town – and make sure its one of the big village festas – because smaller the town – smaller the festa. You don’t want to look like a big city tourist in a small village !


    Like I felt on my trip to Cyprus, I saw very few locals living in Malta –Apparently, people do still live in the city. But like many places we wandered in Malta, there were no signs of local life. It’s almost a museum in itself. Like we experienced in Valletta, there seemed to be gaggles of tourists or absolutely no one about and no in between. My two cents on Malta -  Malta may be smaller than some of the better-known European capitals, but it’s no less noteworthy. Go for the perfect combination of city + beach + restaurants + night life + casino … the perfect one week getaway… If you’re looking for a less obvious city break destination, visit Malta’s hidden gem before the spotlight finally shines on it and visitors start to flood in .

    Contact : https://www.vibrantholidays.com/  The helpful people at Vibrant Holidays helped booked our entire holiday and made it a memorable one. 

    Lebanon - The Paris of the Middle East

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    When Kunal and I first decided to go to Lebanon, we heard a few times things like – its war torn – Gaddafi land, why the middle east … Ah well, to put things in perspective, Lebanon has been peaceful with more than a decade now. It’s a free nation- and although on a daily basis they deal with Syrian refugees – as a tourist in Beirut you will barely see anything – Beirut is like the Paris of the 90’s ! I would also not compare the two, but its like the not so glamorous cousin of Dubai. You will not see many people in Hijabs – which is the mindset one has when you say the Middle East – that’s because its majority population believes in Christianity.

    Lebanon is one of the smallest countries in the middle east. So you can easily see a lot of it in just one week. Before the trip, I was worried if we would be able to see the country in just one week. But needless to say, I had nothing to worry about. We saw everything at a very leisurely pace and left us enough time an afternoon nap and a evening of drinking and dancing. Our journey started in the capital Beirut. As it is so small and short distances, we chose to base ourselves in Beirut for our trip except for 2 nights in the mountains in Faraya . We took day trips from here. Beirut is famous for its nightlife and restaurants. And Kunal and I spent our evenings hanging out and enjoying the atmosphere. We highly recommend to stay in The Four Seasons - In Zaitunay Bay - which is really close to Downtown Beirut and also shopping malls. Also in the evening - right opposite the hotel is the Corniche with all its little shops and Restaurants that come to life. You can also see some really expensive Yachts parked in all their beauty in the Bay.

    We began our exploration in downtown Beirut , the historical and geographical core. This was also the frontline of the Lebanese civil war and suffering and of most devastation of all Beirut. It underwent a thorough resroration plan in the 90’s.


    Then we headed to the national museum of Beirut, its impressive.


     Magnificently displayed collection of archaeological artifacts offers a great over view of Lebannon’s history. And the civilization that impacted this cultural crossroads. 





    On the way there we stumbled upon an impressive art exhibition housed in one of Beirut's most iconic war torn buildings, Beit Beirut. The crumbling bullet market on Beit Beirut Building is a somber reminder of what happened here. And healing Lebanon aims to promote peace through art work. 
    Stroll along the Corniche.
    In the evening we went on a long sunset walk along the Corniche. The sea front promenade that fringes the entire North Western part of Beirut. The 4.8kms promenade is a great place for people watching as families , joggers and bikers often convene here in the evenings. There are also lots of beaches, bars here that overlook the beautiful Mediterranean Sea and the Bay Rock - La Raouche



    Beyond downtown Beirut, there are plenty of lively vibrant neighborhoods in Beirut that a worth a visit. We started in Mar Mikhael , a neighborhood in Beirut which is popular with the younger crowd . Mar Mikhael is an enchanting area to enjoy a coffee, or lunch or to stroll along its authentic traditional houses with Mediterranean facets . We enjoyed our Lunch at Tavolina - I would highly recommend this Deli style Pizzeria ! 

    At night , the many bars and restaurants, ranging from trendy and expensive to laid back and affordable are swamped with locals. Then our guide led us through Achrafieh, a district that shows us a different history of Beirut. It used to be a farm land owned by several powerful Beirut families. The street is home to the Surrsock House. A Museum that holds regularly Modern Art Shows and Sassine Square, one of the oldest in the city. New Buildings have sprung up in the area despite efforts of groups trying to preserve its history. Enjoy a breezy lunch at the Museum Cafe for some delicious tartines and quiches. 



    In the evening, we found ourselves in Beirut Souks. Known as the  Champs Elysees of Beirut. Because of all the Historical Cafes and Theatres, it was once the intellectual center of Beirut. While that has lessened, the district still has a cosmopolitian vibe and is definitely the place to hang out for people interested in culture. The atmosphere is a liberal haven in the middle of a country torn by political difference. Today it is full of coffee shops and pubs that welcome people of all sorts and still stands as a testament to Beirut's rich cultural history. We enjoyed an evening of Jazz at Sax, Downtown - very difficult to get reservations - so make sure to hit them up while planning your trip ! 


    Jeita Grotto.
    At just 18 kms from Beirut Jeita Grotto and Mount Harissa make for an excellent day trip from the city. Jeitta Grotto is surprisingly impressive network of interconnected karst limestone caves spanning on overall length of nearly 9kms. Its named one of the top 14 finalist of the new 7 wonders of nature competition. Though inhabited in PreHistoric times, the lower cave was not rediscovered until 1836 by S W Thompson. It can only be visited by boat since it channels an undergrounds river that provides fresh drinking water to more than a million Lebanese. The Upper Galleries house the world’s largest know Stalactite. Unfortunately photography is not allowed inside the caves. ( File Photo for ref )

    Take a Cable Car to mount Harissa. From Jeitta Grotto it is just a short ride to Mount Harissa. A Important Lebanese Pilgrimage site, our Lady of Lebanon. Its one of the most important shrines in the world honouring the virgin Mary and the shrine is highlighted by a huge 15 tonne Bronze statue of the immaculate conception. The view from the top of the statue is impressive and definitely worth the visit. You can get here from the coastal city of Jouneih by road or by a 9 mins journey by a gondola life known as to Teleferique.



    Enjoy a sea side Luncheon at Chez Sami which is at Jouneih serving Mediterranean Fare. They also have the terrace which is open in the summer months only.

    Baalbeck is the most spectacular archaeological site in Lebanon and definitely a must see in my opinion. The journey from Beirut to Baalbeck takes two hours each way. Baalbeck Roman Ruins is a site of great ancient temples built by the Phoenicians , Romans and other civilizations that have conquered the region. With its colossal structures, Baalbeck is one of the finest examples of imperial roman architecture that I have seen. Almost rivaling those in Rome and Athens. Some of the most impressive temples here are the ones of Bacchus, the Greek God of Wine and Jupiter. The Roman God of light, of the sky and weather. 






    Get Lost in the souks of Sidon

    Along the coast, two historical cities - Tyre and Sidon are beautiful ! Sidon or Sida is Lebanons 3rd largest city and is most famous for its Sea Castle.  In July 2013 – Sidon was the scene of a 2 day battle between Sunni Militants and the Lebanese army which left over 50 people dead. Although Sidon is for calm and safe to visit, be sure to keep up with the news if u decide to visit.
    This coastal town was once a rich and flourishing Phoenician city with tight trade links to ancient Egypt. Today its best known for its fresh fruits, pastries and sweets which can be sampled at their awesome Souk . You cannot leave Lebanon without Tasting Abou Rami's falafels from Sidon !!! They make 100's every minute and the man behind the counter is like a robot dishing out sandwiches after sandwiches ! 



    Just across the road from the souk is Sidon Castle which was built by the crusaders in the 13th century as a fortress of the holy land – another must see when in Lebanon. 

     
    Further South, just 26 kms from the closed Palestenian Border is Tyre, Arrabic name Sur. Another ancient Phoenician city and home to one of the nations major ports. We had a nice stroll on the sea front and meandered our way through the careful residential area before finding ourselves at a historical site.




    The city has a number of ancient sites, including its Roman Hippodrome, which was added to UNESCOS list of World Heritage sites in 1979. Its beaches are also some of the most popular places to go for both tourist and locals alike in summer.



    Back in Beirut for a full on Lebanese experience - albeit very expensive , try 3Anbar . It also has life performances through the night and a go to with locals. If you want to shake a leg or two , wait till after mid - night and u will see a crowd like no other arrive in their Porsche and Lamborghini.


    Try Laila's in Zaitunay Bay for some good Sheesha - also Em Shreiff  ( has 2 branches ) - all of which will require reservations in peak dinner time. BO18; set in what looks like an old bomb shelter, and the highlight of the night is the incredible retractable roof which gives a night-time view of the stars and city lights. They have a banging Thursday night ...



    Set Your celebrations for Burgundy - i booked this one a month in advance - this 3 Michellin Star - although not Vegeterian friendly ... you will enjoy the small menu !



    Cedars of God; the largest of Lebanon nature reserves, Blanketed with oak forests on its northeastern slopes and juniper and oak forests on its southeastern slopes, these Cedar forests account for a quarter of the remaining cedars in Lebanon , and some tress are estimated to be 2,000 years old. From the summit of the rugged mountains, visitors will have a panoramic view of the countryside, eastward to the Beqaa Valley and Qaraoun Lake, and westward toward the Mediterranean. We were so lucky because we reached the Cedar and it began to snow ! If you are going to the Cedar Forest in the summer  - u must hike ! 


    Mzaar Kfardebian also known as Faraya Mzaar is a ski area in Lebanon and the largest ski resort in the Middle East. It is located one hour away from Beirut, the capital of Lebanon. Ski season usually stretches from early December to early April. The peaks of the Mzaar-Kfardebian mountain range vary between heights of 1,913 and 2,465 metres (6,276 and 8,087 ft). The Peak, offer challenges for the experienced skier or snowboarder. Three other peaks are well suited for beginners, and even more are adapted to skier of intermediate level. A large variety of other activities and excursions are also available. Along with traditional alpine skiing, people can practice ski-doo ( ski mobile ), night skiing and snow boarding.



    We stayed at the Intercontinental Mzaar – which is the perfect ski resort for people travelling with young kids. It has a bowling alley, indoor heated pool and spa, a move theatre and a shopping mall all within the hotel itself. 
    We didn't meet Gaddafi because he isn't from Lebanon just FYI. But we did meet the friendly people of Lebanon who would go out of their way to find you Pomegranate Molasses which is the key ingredient to make the Fatoosh. You will also probably look for a falafel maker only to find that Amazon will deliver it to you at the same price that you will buy it at the Souk for. Lebanon was such a small surprise package. We loved how it was laid back and yet so much to do ! Perfect for a couple who is trying to enjoy a vacation away from their baby ;) 





    Iceland - The Land of Ice and Fire

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    Iceland is a country that is becoming an increasingly popular destination for people who are looking for different and diverse experiences. This summer my parents and us siblings decided to go Iceland.  Getting to Iceland is the tough part. Mumbai – New Delhi-Helsinki-Reykjavik on FinAir was 17 hrs. But we decided to take the leap – and we were rewarded. Iceland typically is a 10 day trip. But If you don’t have 10 days to drive the Ring Road around the island, Here is my recommendation for a 6 days Itenary. Since we were travelling with my parents – who don’t like to move around with bags, we took the road trip off the table. We stationed ourselves in the suburbs of Reykjavik – Kopvour.Icelandic Apartments is 200mtrs from Route 1 – just outside the city – so it cuts drive time by 40 mins each time you are headed towards the natural wonders and in the evenings you can drive in less than 8 mins and be in the middle of city for your dinner and night out.

    In Iceland you drive on the right side of the road – and if you ask me that’s not the tough bit – the toughest part is to see an open road for miles and not being able to speed above 90 kms/hr. ( I may have been the only one who has seen a cop in Iceland and paid a speeding ticket !! ) But hiring a 4x4 is the smartest way to see Iceland otherwise. One of Europe’s most magical and unforgettable spots; Iceland is the ultimate road trip destination. Public transportation isn’t practical in Iceland, so you’ll need to make sure you make solid plans. Consider driving yourself because it maximizes your options and gives you the most flexibility. You can stop wherever you want for as long as you want – like in our case – we had the luxury loving parents – the I want to try street food type brother, the art scene check out sister, the I want to walk back and forth the DC Plane Wreck and Snorkel too all in one day Husband. The Ring Road, or Route 1, is the prime Icelandic route, and along with a few essential detours ( ready one too many that we took ), it will show you the best of my favorite Nordic country. July and August are the best summer-time to visit because you’ll have ample sunshine and fairly good weather.

    On the Day we landed into Reykjavik we got there at two different times in 2 groups. My Brother, Kunal and I reached first. We picked up our Car from Blue Cars Rental and headed straight out for dinner. We went to the old harbor area- It’s hard to resist to wander around within it’s charming villages. There they have little boats rugging next to old, colorful sheds from what used to be fishermans cureing shops that have been turned into trinket shops, restaurants and other growing businesses. It’s nice to walk around by the sea with a view of Mount Esja far in the back. We ate at Flatey Pizza and then walked over the Valdi’s for an ice cream. Would highly recommend both. If time permits – they also have a 4 hour Food Walk Tour that we were slightly late to get into.


    Day 1
    The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is around a 370km drive (around 5.5 hours) from the capital city of Reykjavik. Situated about halfway between the southern towns of Vik and Höfn. We stopped for lunch at Vik at TheSoup Company. It’s a small family owned restaurant that serves amazing soups and vegan wraps. When we reached Vik – we almost were ready to come back home  - Jokulsarlon  probably isn’t really a suitable destination for a day-trip out of the capital but we did it anyway. We decided to do this on Day 1 and just tick it off the bucket list – because we knew we would just get very lazy otherwise and never make it there.

    The beauty of the lagoon is undeniable and makes the long drive here totally worth it, but there is also a certain irony as its existence which should also serve as a reminder of the catastrophic effects of global warming and the damage we have done to our planet.Most alarming is that the less than a century old glacial lagoon has become Iceland’s deepest lake with a current depth of around 248 meters - all of which used to be composed of ice.

    The icebergs that float around in the lagoon are chunks of the glacier that have broken off due to rising temperatures. Those huge chunks of ice that float around in the lagoon are often more than a thousand years old and once they’ve broken off from the iceberg more or less float around in the lagoon for around five years before they are eventually small enough to float out to sea.We took the boat trip on the glacier – which gets you closer to some really beautiful formations. Another feature of the mixture of fresh and salt water is that it transforms the icebergs into either a milky shade of white or into a bright blue colour.

    The bright blue icebergs in particular which appear almost diamond-like become even more beautiful once the icebergs become small enough to float out to sea through the river mouth. Once they float out to sea they’re often pushed back into the shore which has created an additional attraction that has become known as the Diamond Beach.

    The drive there and back to Reyjkavik left us extremely tired. Pushed us to the brink – I was speeding at a 130 kms/hr and got caught and had to use my Gujju Charm to negotiate the speeding ticket. It worked !! We finally stopped at Sudur-Vik for some Wood Fired Pizza…. Had we not been so tired and the speeding ticket hadn’t marred our spirit – I would have definitely enjoyed the Pizza a whole lot more !!



    Day 2:
    We organized ourselves a whole lot better for Day 2 ! We decided on a plan and tried our best to stick to it. We started early and drove straight on Route 1 headed direction Vik again. You get the most beautiful view from a vantage point at DYRHOALEY Light house. You will see a beautiful Black Sand Beach Coast - Nicknamed the ‘Land of Ice and Fire’, Iceland is known more for its geo-thermal hot springs and spas than it is for beaches, but you might be surprised to learn that Iceland is home to one of the top-ten (non tropical) beaches in the world! Just don’t expect to go for a swim. Southern Iceland’s ‘Black Sand Beach’, known to locals as Reynisfjara is one of the country’s top attractions and for good reason - It is one of the prettiest beaches you’ll ever have the luck of visiting.


    Black Sand? The “sand” that you’ll find on the beach is actually more similar to fine rocks and pebbles than the finely grained sand that you are used to on other beaches. The supply of this special black sand however is constantly being replenished thanks to the volatility of Katla which is in a constant state of activity.

    Sólheimasandur Plane Crash

    This 40-year-old weather-beaten aircraft has become one of Iceland’s most dramatic photography spots  thanks to a love song “Gerua” featuring Shahrukh and Kajol and ofcourse due to its remote location on a desolate black sand beach. Personally – I did not see the hype – to me it looks like a scene out of some post-apocalyptic zombie movie! The wings & tail are missing, it’s full of holes, and the crumbling fuselage is covered with wind-blown black sand. Once you park your car in the parking lot and pass through the small gate, you’ll see a yellow sign that indicates the track. This beach road is packed down pretty well, (more gravel than sand). We walked out to the plane from the main road which is about 4km long since we missed the only shuttle bus which is approximately every 45 mins. We took some quick photos and got onto a bus coming back – its steep 1500 Kronas for a one way ride per person for the journey back.

    We then decided to drive back to the Black Sand Beach – because we found only that one restaurant offering Vegan Food in that area. So if you decide to follow this itenary – do the DC Plane Wreck first. We went to the Black Beach Restaurant – Find my review on Trip Advisor here ! We were pleasantly surprised to find so many Vegeterian Options here – including an Icelandic Version of Cholay Rice ;)


    Iceland is home to a countless number of waterfalls with each one of them unique in its own way. The common feature of all of them is that they are a testament to the beauty of our planet’s natural environment and are one of the many reasons why so many people have been attracted to Iceland in recent years. One of the most popular and highly visited of those is the beautiful cascading Seljalandsfoss falls in the south of the country. At sixty meters in height, it is one of the highest waterfalls in the country but arguably its most attractive feature (and one that makes it so popular with tourists and photographers alike) is that you can easily view it from the front and from the cave behind!

    Visitors who don’t mind getting wet can even take turns walking down to water-level at the rear of the waterfall to get those all-important travel shots. Once you’ve walked around the perimeter of the waterfall, you’ll probably want to take some photos of it from the front. Visiting Seljalandsfoss doesn’t particularly require a lot of time but depending on the amount of tourists you could get stuck waiting in line on the path to the rear of the falls. It is well worth the wait though. You’re going to need a raincoat, or something to protect yourself from the cold mist. The waterfall is quite high, so it produces quite a bit of mist both in the front and in the cave behind.

    Skógafoss is a waterfall situated on the Skógá River in the south of Iceland at the cliffs of the former coastline. The Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country with a width of 15 metres (49 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). It is said, due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. When standing at the base of Skogafoss, you will really feel your own humanity as you face off against this giant of nature, as you can see in the pics from below. Skogafoss tosses over millions of gallons of water and has been doing so for thousands and thousands of years. Seeing Skogafoss Waterfall in person is an extremely exhilarating experience. The waterfall was a location for the filming of the Marvel Studios film Thor: The Dark World.



    That evening, it was with great anticipation that I finally dined at Sumac, on Reykjavik's main shopping street, Laugavegur. In the middle of the restaurant there's an open kitchen where you can observe the chefs working the grill and preparing dishes. It makes for a bustling, steamy, aromatic and interesting atmosphere, and you can also even sit on the counter of this open kitchen to either enjoy cocktails or eat. Go there for your delicious hummus and muhammara (a dip made with almonds and red peppers), crispy falafel and plump, juicy green olives enjoyed with freshly baked flatbread.



    Day 3
    The Golden Circle
    Without stopping, the Golden Circle route can take as little as 3.5 hours to drive, but we spent about 10 hours on the road capturing a lot of photos and didn’t feel too rushed. While there are countless stopping points along the Golden Circle, here are a few of the most popular destinations that we chose to stop at along our drive!


    Thingvellir National Park

    Thingvellir National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has played a major part in Iceland’s history. You can find lakes, waterfalls, natural formations, and most exciting to Kunal and Rishi, the Silfra Fissure! The Silfra Fissure is one of the most incredible dive destinations on earth, so it was an absolute must. Silfra is the only place in the world where you can dive between continental plates. The water is also nearly freezing (2°C – 4°C year round) as it comes from the Langjökull glacier.
    It was raining and it was so cold – so the boys decided to do this on their own. And my parents and my sister and I decided to visit Öxarárfoss Waterfall. 

    One of the reasons why Thingvellir is so important to the Icelandic people is because the first ‘Icelandic Parliament’, known as the “Althingi” was formed there sometime in the 9th century. In terms of national pride, this is pretty much the place where Icelandic identity finds its origins and is recognized as the oldest continuously existing national parliament in the world. In order to provide water service to the ancient parliament, the Öxará river was diverted in its direction which in turn created the waterfall as the direction of the river now forced the water over a cliff in the Rift Valley.

    While not a large waterfall, visitors are able to get quite close to the river and it is quite easy to take nice photos of the area which has made it an important stop along the Golden Circle. And yes, I know I haven’t mentioned it yet, but those with a keen eye will know that this area was featured in the popular Game of Thrones.

    Right where you get off – there is an unmarked Café with a Black Roof where we had Lunch. Hot Pizza and a Thai Soup of the day saved our day. Nothing too fantastic – but your basic food on the go.

    Strokkur Geysir
    Geyser’s are essentially a rare geological phenomenon that are found only in a few locations around the Earth - To make an analogy, geysers are like natural “teapots” which boil and build up immense heat and pressure before they eventually burst with steam. The sight of that steam and hot water bursting out of the earth in such a spectacular fashion is a natural event that has fascinated people for probably as long as humans have existed. Currently the most active geyser in the park is known as “Strokkur” which erupts every five-to-ten minutes each of which reaching heights of anywhere between twenty to forty meters.

    Gullfoss
    The majestic Gullfoss waterfall, located in southwest Iceland’s Hvítá River Canyon, is one of the largest and most powerful waterfalls in Iceland. There are various view-points set up around waterfall for people to take photos as well as a well-developed and (more importantly) safe walking trail that allows people to get as close to the falls as possible.


    Most of the shots that you will have seen of the waterfall will have been taken from a viewpoint near the lower parking lot where we took this photo from. This area is where you can get the widest view of the falls and are also safest from the mist. This will not show up on your GPS – we just got really lucky with a small sign on the road leading upto the main Parking lot.

    Kerid Crater
    Iceland is currently home to around 130 active (and inactive) volcanoes which directly contribute to the constantly changing nature of the country’s natural environment. In 2010 for example, the relatively small eruption at Eyjafjallajökull caused massive disruptions to air travel around Europe and North America thanks to the tons of volcanic ash that it spewed for a period of six days.

     

    What happens though when a volcanic eruption is too powerful?  In some cases a powerful eruption has the ability to completely collapse all the land around it forming a circular volcanic crater known to geologists as a caldera. Iceland is home to quite a few of these craters, especially in the Western Volcanic Zone, and a few of them have become popular tourist attractions. Most notable of those is ‘Crater Kerið’ in Southern Iceland which now serves as a popular destination for tourists along the Golden Circle route to see first-hand the awesome power of the Earth’s destructive capabilities.

    This evening – we were in the typical big group dilemma. I wanted to eat a nice Warm Fine Dine Meal and my brother wanted to eat street food – tacos etc. In such situations we highly recommend to go to a food truck park – but its indoors; called Hlemmur Mathöll in downtown Reykjavik. SKAL is a fine dine restraunt with the best Goat Cheese and crackers and an amazing Ceriliac Main Course that blew my mind. Flatey from Day 1 also has an outlet here. Together with Fuego – a Taco Truck that Rishi wanted to go to. The entire dinner party was a feast for us all. 

    Day 4
    Using combinations of geothermal energy, naturally purified water and artificial light, Icelandic farmers have been mimicking bright, balmy spring days by using greenhouses. One such enterprising farm is Friðheimar, which specializes in growing cucumber and herbs, but tomatoes are truly their thing. Friðheimar’s current owners Knútur and Helena bought it in 1995 with a dream of combining two passions – horses and horticulture. Over the last 20 years they’ve grown the farm incredibly, installing huge new greenhouse buildings (enabling them to grow tomatoes, cucumber and herbs year-round), a restaurant and store, and an equestrian centre with a 20-horse stable. Visitors have been coming in their droves since their restaurant operation began in 2011 and this is the perfect place to stop-off for lunch on a self-drive Golden Circle tour.

    Naturally, the tomato soup is the star here and big potfuls of the stuff are decanted into the large soup kettles almost every ten minutes it seemed! Lots of fresh bread of different varieties and toppings is cut and left nearby, so it’s a wonderful help-yourself buffet type operation. You can also order one or two daily specials from the kitchen: on our day there was a delicious sounding ricotta-stuffed pasta and also a flatbread pizza option. On each table sits condiments that you can personalize and tweak the flavour of your dish (most often the soup, it’s their bestseller). So if you enjoy a spoon of soured cream through yours, a liberal addition of cucumber salsa or some freshly-cut basil using the herb scissors provided, you can be their guest.

    The drinks and desserts are, of course, tomato-based too! We honestly gorged so much on the soup and bread . We topped it with tomato ice-cream and a green tomato and apple pie. The community spirit amongst the Friðheimar staff and the atmosphere that’s been created here doesn’t feel like an intense farmland production, it feels like you’re sitting down to home-cooked food in a farming family’s dining room (just with about 100 other guests, too!)

    Note: Pre-booking is recommended, as it is a popular stop-off by coach tours, but if you have patience and you’re in plenty of time, the lovely team will find you a table!

    Langjokull Glacier
    A few days ago if u asked my Mum if she wanted to go snowmobiling on top of Langjökull glacier she would have said no way !  But she is the sort of person who takes on any challenge and when each one of us said we wanted our own mobile – she had no choice but to ride one herself. To put things in perspective – We are the sorts who never go on a rollercoaster, But we drive over the speed limit, and  we can’t even think about parachuting without getting nauseous. In short: We are Demi-chickens. So going on a snowmobile tour is something I imagined I would never do, and definitely something I thought I could never enjoy. I was wrong. And this is already the second time I am enjoying it. The Last one we did when we were in Lebanon in Faraya.



    Blue Lagoon
    By the time we came back towards Reykjavik – it was almost 830 pm and we were contemplating whether of not to go to the Blue Lagoon this late. It’s safe to say that visiting the Blue Lagoon in Iceland is on just about everyone’s bucket list. It’s milky blue water and otherworldly appearance is like something out of a dream. But before my trip to Iceland, I had read plenty of articles about the Blue Lagoon and there were a couple of common themes: it’s expensive and it will ruin your hair and go there either early or late in the day.


    I must admit I did not find it expensive – if anything they give you your moneys worth. It is true it will ruin your hair – I mean I have already enjoyed 2 hair spas in the month in which I have been back. And we entered the lagoon at around 10pm and stayed there until close of day at midnight – the sun had just set – thanks to the summer day light – it was just the perfect relaxing thing to do after our hectic 4 days of Iceland. The Blue Lagoon is now a Geothermal Spa (with water temperature around 37-40°C or 98-104°F) and is run like most other day spas you find around the world. There is accommodation, as well as saunas, restaurants & cafes, lockers, showers, etc.


    The geothermal water features three active ingredients: Silica, Algae & Minerals.While it looks blue, the water is actually white. If you pour it into a transparent cup, it will have a milky white color. The sun simply makes it look blue! I recommend opting for the standard package (€55 – prices vary as per the time of the day). You get your own towel, locker, and access to the Lagoon, saunas and showers, silica mud mask, and a drink free. I definitely made the most of my visit and stayed for about 2 hours.


    Day 5
    Downtown Reykjavik
    It was really the first day we slept in and woke up really late on this trip... all that road travel sure does get to you. We Decided to have a late breakfast and met with the Free Walking Tour Lady for our Downtown Reykjavik Tour. We walked by Hallgrimskirkja – which is the iconic Church that rises above the smaller buildings of downtown. 


     Icelanders are creative people and Reykjavik has a big focus on design. Most buildings are made of concrete so have become a blank canvas for street art. You’ll find it all around the city – from tiny hidden sketches to colourful murals covering the whole side of a building. The artists are usually commissioned or get permission from the property owner so it’s more art than graffiti.


    Reykjavik’s a great place for shopping too, with not many chains and lots of unique boutiques. Head to the main Laugavegur shopping street for cool clothing and home wares. Some of the top gifts to take home are lopapeysa (cozy Icelandic woolen jumpers) and lava rock jewelry.

    After walking in the cold for about 2 hours, she left us at the Pond behind city hall. It's the perfect setting, benches to sit on - books with stories that travellers had written left behind, ducks swimming , children running around...We took a few photos and were ready to sit at just about at cafe or deli that we walked by - and we took a chance on this quaint cafe. I would practically move into the Bergsson Mathus if I had one near me. It mixes up slightly kitsch Parisian deli-style decor with Nordic touches. There are artworks covering the walls and the bar is lined with shelves of colour-coded tin cans – what’s vintage not to love?


    The food’s good too, with small side plates and local specialities and homemade cakes. It’s a really cosy place where you can hide out on a wintery afternoon and read the papers, buy a book or borrow a board game.  

    Rishi had decided yet again to venture on his own and go for that all famous Hot Dog Stand , yes they have a vegan version of it too and then meet us by the music concert hall. Since opening in 2011 Harpa Concert Hall has been a dramatic new addition to the city’s waterfront and has rapidly become one of the most famous Reykjavik attractions. The building is made up of three-dimensional glass panels which use the same hexagonal shape as Iceland’s basalt rocks.


    It sparkles with light reflected from the sea and sky by day, and is lit by colourful lights by night. The concert hall is home to the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra but even if you can’t get to a performance it’s worth wandering around and checking out the architecture. There’s a bar, restaurant and gift shop, and a terrace with views out to the harbour and mountains.

    After this hectic trip - it was time to unwind and we drove around the new harbour lined with massive Nordic Cruise Ships. We drove past the smaller bylanes and saw some pretty houses facing the sea and then indulged in retail therapy. I wouldnt particularly shop shop in an Iceland Mall. They have the high street brands and a few local shops - not priced competitvely. 

    We later went to Gandhi Restraunt for a nice round up hot meal of Paneer Tikka Masala and Garlic Naan. Like every Indian - we licked our plates clean post 6 days of eating Vegan and Deli and Homestyle ... u get this emotion only if you are an Indian National. 

    Despite all our differences , a trip with the siblings - the jokes you make on your parents, the eyes you roll at each other - the patience it takes to endure all this - makes it unique. But those early morning cuddles that you get from your dad , and the hot breakfast your mom makes you at the apartment are just what dreams are made off. Although we did leave Samara behind with my mum in law , I missed her so much. I cannot say she missed me - she has the best Grand Parents ever , i count my blessing twice when I think of my In Laws. But to see my parents navigate 3 kids ( 4 if you count Kunal ) , I know what I have coming for me !!! Expanding the brood is going to ensure we never have a dull moment :) 






    Cambodia - A collision of the Ancient and the Modern World

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    While traveling for 10 days in Cambodia, we felt like we were constantly smiling. There is a certain sense of calmness which is almost second nature to the locals. The children, with grins on their faces, waved and shouted, “Hello! Hello! What’s your name?”. It wasn’t just the children who were adorable. We passed grown men, giggling and playing friendly tricks on each other on a regular basis.But there’s another side to Cambodia. A raw and very real side that is unavoidable. Cambodia is a country that has been ravaged by Khmer Rouge regime that wiped out nearly two-fifths of the country’s population and instilled fear into the survivors.

    Today, you'll see people with missing limbs in the streets – a very real effect of the millions of landmines that were planted in the country’s rural area. And the Khmer Rouge's distaste for intellect has left a mark on the citizens' perception of education. But despite the heartbreaking history, Cambodia is flourishing in many ways. People almost seem to ignore their country’s painful past and are inexplicably joyful. And the tourism industry in Cambodia is growing rapidly.

    We Started our tour in the capital city of Phonm Penh. This surprisingly contemporary metropolis is made of two extremes – there is an abundance of sleek cafes and modern charm, but is also a place with a deep and painful history.On our first day we visited Tonle Bati – an ancient temple by the lake. We instantly started drawing comparions and were astonished to see how closely the Jain – Buddist Culture it represented.

    We later hung out by our Hotel Pool – you got to enjoy the Victorian charm of the Raffles Hotel. In the evening we walked around the Victory Monument, a nice stroll where locals hang out together under the lit up trees. Just what us as toddler parents wanted. Enough exploration to grow as people and enough relaxation to have a renewed sense of vigour to tackle the big upcoming task of becoming TWIN parents. We prefer action pact on some days and others where we are simply hanging.


    Visit to Phnom Penh is not complete without a visit to the famous Elephant Bar, an institution in the city and where the famous Raffles afternoon tea is served. The bar has one of Asia’s largest selection of gin with over 30 different gins. Their signature cocktail is the Femme Fatale, first concocted for Jacqueline Kennedy during her visit to Cambodia in 1967.

    Mali’s is a restaurant popular with tourists seeking to taste Khmer cuisine. A wonderful restaurant in the middle of Phonm Pehn. Amazing tropical feel, friendly staff that helped us manoevur Vegeterian Food, and the food itself was so fresh and flavourful, especially the Amok , a local dish. . We enjoyed their traditional and Site created cocktails.

    The following day we Continued exploring and visited the Royal Palace which is close to the popular riverside promenade. There is a small museum which also displays local clothing and a few hand made homeware in lines with the Indus Valley Civilization.


    All around the palace , there are scenes from the Ramayana - which are painted in the most intricate fashion. Only all the characters depicted more Asian features than those that we see in India.


    That afternoon we also visited the tragic past of Cambodia.


    In 1975 to 1979 about two-fifths of the country was brutally slaughtered by an organization that overthrew the government called the Khmer Rouge. They attempted to create a society based solely on extreme work in rural areas. City people were transported to the fields to labor in brutal conditions. Even more horrific, if you had a high school education, wore glasses or had soft hands, you were brought to the killing fields where you had only one fate.


    Not learning about the Khmer Rouge while in Cambodia is like not learning about the Nazis while in Germany. It's part of their history and awareness should be spread so something like this will never happen again. There are killing fields all throughout Cambodia, but the one near Phnom Penh is the most well-known and is easily accessible. The killing fields has an audio tour that exceeded our expectations. It told the complete story of the area with different audio points to follow along.


    After the heaviness of the killing fields, continue on to the S21 Genocide Museum. S21 was a school before 1975, but Khmer Rouge transformed it into a prison camp where they tortured and interrogated nearly 9,000 people before transporting them to the Killing Field where they all met the same fate.


    That evening, the only things that was gpoing to list the heaviness of our heart was a warm pizza and cold white wine. A bustling kerbside eatery just like you'd find in Italy, Piccola De Luigi's certainly has a claim to making some of the best pizza in Phnom Penh. After dark, reservations are recommended.


    For our last evening, we chose the Sora Sky Bar in the Rosewood Hotel. Perched on the 37th floor on a spacious cantilevered terrace, Sora undoubtedly boasts the best views of the capital – it is the highest building after all. High tables dot the space, private pergolas housing soft seating that cater to groups sprinkle the edge of the deck, and a large bar forms the centerpiece. 


    We took an early morning flight to Sihounkville and then a hotel speed boat to Koh Rong.


    There's hardly any online presence of hotels on Koh Russey because the electricity is limited and therefore limited internet. With the help of our Travel Agent – Faro Holidays, we found this exquisite boutique hotel – Alila Villa. With the bed facing the sunset and the beach shack just a few steps away – we were in the lap of luxury.


    It only helped that the Executive Chef came to meet us on our very first day – and understood our dietary restrictions – after which breakfast lunch and dinners were simply a treat. We did not order anything from the menu while we were staying there. Leaving it to the chef was the best decision we made. Every Meal was a treat in itself !


    The 3 days on the island we simply enjoyed going from the pool to the ocean and enjoyed the bottomless Cocktails – It was simply heaven. In between all the snoozing under the shady palm trees – I took the Kayak out at sea.


    We met other honeymooners and lovers and some of the best conversations one can hope to have are over good meals. We did not venture out of the hotel – this R & R, Imagine waking up to the sound of the tide crashing on the shore as you stare out your bungalow onto your own secluded beach on your private side of the island.


    Leaving this island was no easy feat – but I was simply excited by the fact that I was going to tick of yet another thing off my Bucket List – “ANGKOR WAT”

    We flew to Siem Reap and spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the Tonle Sap. The floating villages at Tonle Sap Lake have become something of an interest for tourists visiting Siem Reap. The fascination with people who live in floating houses, travel to floating schools and eat at floating restaurants is quite an attraction for the many visitors that come to Cambodia


    As well as the floating villages, there are also stilted villages along the banks of Tonle Sap Lake, where houses and buildings rest on tall, thin stilts that keep the occupants dry during the wet season, with giant ladders to reach the lower levels during the dry season.


    In Siem Reap we stayed at the Park Hotel, which is literally 200 mtrs from Pub Street - which is the epicenter of all things touristy. we spent the rest of the evening enjoying the Happy Hours and an infinity Pool.

    A note on sunrise at Ankor Wat: Let’s just say that sunrise at Angkor Wat is one of those tourist attractions that may leave you disappointed. We heard how hectic it can get, and we really wanted to see the temples at our own pace. I’ll say this: if you aren’t too bothered to get to Angkor Wat at sunrise, you may be better off skipping it. It can be straight-up annoying to be surrounded by such a massive crowd with selfie sticks and people who know no personal space.


    We even heard of a fight break out as people were trying to get a prime spot. That said, if you feel the need to go to Angkor Wat at sunrise, GO. We didnt – no shame. It's a Bucket List item Just know that those tranquil pictures you see are deceiving. It will be madness. Yes, even if you arrive super-duper early. Caution: Angkor Wat will always be packed with people no matter what time of day you go. Leave early to get ahead of the hundreds of people doing the same route you are. That way you will be ahead of the pack and exploring empty temples through the day.


    Explore the preserved bas-relief on each of the outer walls. If you have time, head up to the third level for an incredible panoramic view of the temple and surrounding areas. However, be prepared for up to a 45-minute wait in the scorching sun as there is only limited space.


    Bayon Temple is one of our favorites. There are hundreds of cheeky smiling Buddha faces built into the temple, and because you're there early, the sun will slowly creep down brightening each face one by one.


    One of the more well known temples is Ta Phrom Temple. Commonly called the "Tomb Raider" temple, this one is especially crowded. Nature has reclaimed this temple with enormous teak wood trees towering over walls and fallen bricks. Go there in the afternoon and you may be the only few people.It's amazing to see how nature can take over a places after centuries of time.



    Once you had enough temples for the day (trust us, you’ll get to that point), head back to your hotel and take a much-needed nap. Then it’s time to hit the town. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Siem Reap. Pub Street has a galore of International cuisine. None that are super fancy - but are really pocket friendly. WE dined at Elia Greek Restaurant.


    And also enjoyed some Margaretias and a meal the following day at Viva - the burrittos are to die for ! After that meal - there is not much you can do. So we literally just walked over to the next Massage parlour and enjoyed the 7th one hour massage of the trip ! By the time the trip ended - wehad had 10 massages - in the 10 days that we were out of home. GUILTY AS CHARGED.

    Be sure to see the free Ansana dance at Temple Bar. The show starts a little after 7 p.m., but get there around 6:30 p.m. to get a good table. Their jugs of beer are decently priced and the cocktails are fun.

    The next day, Get picked up by your tuk tuk driver at a much more reasonable hour (8 a.m. or 9 a.m.) and head off toward Bantaey Srei. Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving anywhere on Earth. Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Women’, and it is said that it must have been built by a woman, as the elaborate carvings are supposedly too fine for the hand of a man. Banteay Srei is one of the few temples around Angkor to be commissioned not by a king but by a brahman. 



    During the sad history of Cambodia, the Khmer Rouge did more than take lives. They nearly destroyed an entire culture, including any artistic expression. The Phare Circus is an organization that is reviving the arts that was nearly destroyed. They provide an education for the poor children of Cambodia and give them the opportunity to learn acting and high-flying tricks by joining the Phare Circus – how cool is that? The students are enthusiastic and put on a great (and interactive!) show.

    Tip: There is limited seating so be sure to book at least a day before.  Note: The Phare Circus has relocated and it is a bit of a way outside of town. You will need to hire a tuk tuk driver to take you there, wait for you during the show and bring you back.


    The following day, we went to what is Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Kulen . It is a popular place of pilgrimage on weekends and during festivals. It played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here in AD 802 that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving birth to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a giant reclining Buddha, hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive waterfall and some remote temples.

    From the entrance a sealed road winds its way through some spectacular jungle scenery, emerging on the plateau after a 12km ascent. The road eventually splits: the left fork leads to the picnic spot, waterfall and ruins of a 9th-century temple. Take your swimming gear if you are all for Picnics and waterfalls - but consider this as ok to miss if you have been to Lonavala one too many times. The waterfall is an attractive spot and was featured in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. However, it could be much more beautiful were it not for all the litter left here by families picnicking at the weekend.

    The right fork continues over a bridge (you'll find the riverbed carvings around here) to the base of Wat Preah Ang Thom, which sits at the summit of the mountain and houses the large reclining Buddha carved into the sandstone boulder upon which it is built. This is the focal point of a pilgrimage for Khmer people, so it is important to take off your shoes and any head covering before climbing the stairs to the sanctuary. These days the views from the 487m peak are partially obstructed by foliage run amok.



    A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in the jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, the name actually means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the natural rock bridge here. Lingas (phallic symbols) have been elaborately carved into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. It was ‘discovered’ in 1969, when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a hermit.

    There is an impressive carving of Vishnu on the upper section of the river, followed by a series of carvings at the bridgehead itself, some of which were hacked off in the past few years, but have since been replaced by excellent replicas. This area is now roped off to protect the carvings from further damage. Following the river down, there are several more impressive carvings of Vishnu, and Shiva with his consort Uma, and further downstream hundreds of lingas appear on the riverbed. At the top of the waterfall are many animal images, including a cow and a frog, and a path winds around the boulders to a wooden staircase leading down to the base of the falls.

    Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples, and its urban areas can surprise with their sophistication. Chaotic yet charismatic capital Phnom Penh is a revitalised city earning plaudits for its sumptuous riverside setting, cultural renaissance, and wining-and-dining scene. Second city Siem Reap, with cosmopolitan cafes and a diverse nightlife, is as much a destination as the nearby iconic temples. 

    My recommendation : Take a return fly via Bangkok - shop your hearts content and you will have the whole package - Travel, Spa-Retreat + Shopping !

    Morocco

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     Have u ever been to a place that you only visited – but then decided to make it your home like British singer Raisa Kelly did ? Morocco’s the kind of place you visit once—and immediately know you’ll be back. There’s plenty to make your heart beat fast: It might be the way Marrakech, the Red City, glows as the sun rises, or how picturesque it is to watch magicians and storytellers move in knots through Jemaa el-Fna Square as that same sun sets. The thrill of haggling for rugs and dinnerware and copper trinkets inside Fez's maze-like medina could do it. Or perhaps it’s that Blue of Chefchaouen, We are hooked on feeling like you've escaped to somewhere completely different, where you sleep inside opulent riads, venture into the desert, admire mounds of spices at the markets that you know would never be cooked in your  home or those gorgeous Atlas Mountains and the Rif Mountains that you can endlessly admire while travelling through the country. Then you realize—you’re not even that far away. You can get to this Arab-Berber country, on the tip of Africa, in the time it takes to get to New York owing to all the Flight Connections through Eastern Africa. And all of the sudden, coming back doesn’t seem like such a stretch after all.

    Landing in Casablanca is your only choice when coming from India – and I would totally give Casablanca a miss. However there are a few things to see when you land. Casablanca's stunning Art Deco buildings could make it the Miami of Morocco. The city has long been overshadowed as a destination by  the medieval splendours of Fez and the hip and exoticness of Marrakech. However, Casablanca is totally modern. We spent 24 hours in Casablanca and would recommend Strolling Mohammed V and visit the towering Mosque of Hassan II. At night we went to a Hip Resto Lounge – Le Cabestan and people watching has never been more amazing. The Glitterati of Casablanca parading in their Aston Martins and Lamberginis  - the women of Morocco are gorgeous and dress to impress.

    The next day was a long journey. Starting from Casablanca , then a quick visit to Rabat and finishing the day at Chefchaouen. Although Rabat has a thousand-year history, it became a major city only in the 20th century when the French moved the administrative capital from Fès to Rabat. Since then it has become a distinguished, elegant and modern city. It is the closest city to Casablanca where one may feel the historical grandeur and cultural diversity of Morocco. The Kasbah Oudaya looks like a simmered down version of Santorini . Today, the Kasbah remains a popular free tourist attraction within Rabat, offering scenic views of the waterfront of Rabat, the Bou Regreg river, neighboring Salé, and the Atlantic Ocean. It is mostly occupied as a residential neighborhood, known for its distinct blue and white walls. An unoccupied site adjacent to the Kasbah is used as one of the concert venues for the annual Mawazine music festival in Rabat.


    While Planning a trip – I’m always looking for the path less taken – and If you follow  Instagram the way I do and the way nobody should be wasting their time ;)—I ended up going down a total “geo-tag rabbit hole," . While considering all the big names like Marrakech, Fez, Casablanca. I'd never heard of Chefchaouen and was so intrigued by this little town painted entirely in blue. I have a thing for blue hues, so it was a kind of a match made in heaven.  Tucked high in Morocco’s Rif Mountains, the all-blue town of Chefchaouen is a calming as opposed from the overwhelming frenzy of Marrakech and Fez. Once in the Medina, Painted in a palette of mesmerizing blue hues, Chefchaouen's offers a thousand photo opportunities, we literally spent the next hour against every blue wall – each more stunning than the previous one.

    Travel approximately four hours to Volubilis the site of the best preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. Dating primarily from the 2nd and 3rd centuries, Volubilis was one of the Roman Empire’s most remote outposts.

    Then to Fès, the oldest of Morocco’s Imperial Cities and the kingdom’s spiritual center, Fès is central to the Islamic world. Founded around 790 by Moulay Idriss I, many mosques and mederas  were constructed in Fès. Considered by scholars to be the last true example of a typical medieval Arab town, Fès is under the strict building code supervision of UNESCO. Its labyrinth of alleyways opens to craft workshops, vast leather tanneries and richly ornamented monuments.

    Through Wilderness , narrow gorges and bare hills – the route to the great Sahara Desert is amazing. The journey as beautiful as the destination.  The Anti-Atlas stood out against slate-coloured skies, Here and there, where the valleys widened, there was a sudden greening as meagre water courses allowed palms and olives and figs to grow in carpets of grass. The Sahara takes charge of the landscape soon after. we left the paved road for desert tracks, passing a small caravan of nomads resting beneath thorn trees while their camels lazed beside them. The plains stretched away to unfathomable distances. It was impossible to say if a range of low hills was one mile or a hundred miles away. Mirages began to appear, glistening lakes, floating trees, permanently out of reach.  After an hour on camel back on the golden sand dunes, riding like smooth humpbacked whales in a flat sea. Suddenly, the Jannat Luxury Desert camp appreared out of nowhere … Porters materialised like desert genies to unload our bags.  My tent lay in one of their hollows. The size of a small chalet, it was Saharan chic: Berber rugs, wrought-iron lanterns, a double bed covered with piles of cushions, a palette of neutral colours. There was a bathroom attached with a clever water system to allow for desert showers, and a rather nifty chemical loo. In the world of Saharan travel, I was obviously in club class.



    We spent than evening with Berber Music meeting Gujrati Garba Folk way into the night. At night we asked our driver where he was going to sleep – he said on the sand – we thought he was joking – we joked with him that we will sleep on the desert sand too – before we knew it we were iterally sleeping under the stars – they pulled the mattress out on the cold sand – we passed out looking at a carpet of stars  - it was the first time in my life I saw not one but countless shooting stars. and enjoyed "Moon-Rising"

    The next day we went through hundreds of Nomad crossings, rose valleys and two-tone kasbahs: even on paper, the Dadès Valley stretches the imagination. From the daunting High Atlas to the north to the rugged range in the south, the valley is dotted with oases and mudbrick palaces that give the region its fairy-tale nickname – Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs. Some of the best views are only glimpsed when travelling, along hidden livestock tracks between the Dadès and Todra Gorges and nomad routes across the Saghro.

     


    We arrived in Marrakech our last destination - Prepare for your senses to be slapped. Marrakesh's  sights and sounds will dazzle, frazzle and enchant. Put on your babouches (leather slippers) and dive right in. Marrakesh is a city steeped in ancient artistry that continues to thrive, kept alive by the modern craftspeople of the souqs and the contemporary art and design scene of the Ville Nouvelle.

     

    Bahia Palace and the Dar Si Said are a riot of tilework and intricate floral painted wood ceilings.


    DON’T MISS Le JARDIN SECRET.

    The foundations of this historic riad are more than 400 years old, and it was once owned by powerful qaid (local chief) . Here, though, it's not the building but the traditional Islamic garden that is so special. Fed by a restored original khettara (underground irrigation system), the gardens are set up as a living museum to demonstrate the ancient waterworks.


    I wouldn’t even miss the Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. I was blown away and truly inspired by Jardin Majorelle. This twelve-acre botanical garden and artist's landscape garden took expatriate French artist Jacques Majorelle forty years to create. I love places with so much history and creativity. The color combinations are magical.

     

    The Yves Saint Laurent museum, opened in 2017, showcases finely selected collections of haute couture clothing and accessories that span 40 years of creative work by legendary French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. The aesthetically warped and wefted building resembles woven fabric and holds a 150-seat auditorium, research library, bookstore and terrace cafe serving light snacks.

    The core of the museum is the Yves Saint Laurent Hall, a permanent display of his sketches, rotating haute-couture fashions and color-themed accessories. The backdrop is entirely black – a key color in YSL's designs – creating a cavernous cocoon pierced only by audiovisuals of the designer's catwalk shows and recordings of him speaking.

    Vegeterian Food was sparse in the first half of the trip where we were going through smaller towns - As great as Moroccan food can be, it is a tough country for restaurants: Cheesy belly dancing and insipid tagine are everywhere, and a dearth of quality ingredients doesn’t help. But some surprising hits are hidden in the medina, and hotels are upping their offers in big city like Marrakech, with sophisticated, damn-that’s-legit Italian fine dining rooms like La Mamounia or the Royal Mansoor. And if I have to mention – I was so happy to see finally an Indian restaurant – far from Indian aesthetics – The Oberoi Marackech has an Indian restaurant set overlooking an Olive Groove – Gone are the days of those oily samosas you ate because you were just happy to have found Indian food in the first place. With lip smacking kebabs and the oberoi hospitality to match … Indian restaurants abroad have finally arrived.

     

    Morocco is a country full of stories, that has, over the centuries, woven its ties to sub-Saharan Africa, Europe and the wider Middle East into whole cloth. Its mixed Arab and Berber population forms a strong national identity, but an increasingly youthful one, taking the best of its traditions and weaving the pattern anew – from the countryside to the city, from the call to prayer from the mosque to the beat of local hip hop. Morocco has a hundred faces and sounds, all ready to welcome the traveller looking for spice and adventure. It was safe for our group of 5 girls – we were on the road for 10 days covering almost 1500 kms – but the journeys were well worth it. I already know I’m going to be in Morocco again.

     

     

     

     

     





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